Understood about the relay module. I checked it and it looks a little worn, so I will get a new relay or RCM altogether. My question regarding the motor was meant to know whether I need to order one of those too. It only hums when power is applied directly to the contacts, so I assume that means that the motor is shot as well correct? Thank you for the responses. Appreciated

 

Sometimes they can be repaired if you have the ability to try. As they are not critical parts until you have to have a pollution check it might be worth the effort.
CLICK

 

Thank you for this great writeup. Just what I needed.
Inge

 

Hi all,

Does anyone know how to take off that small blue check valve piece to the left of the air pump. I know it sounds like a silly question, but in my case I tried pulling the blue valve off and was unable to. I believe it is deeply stuck which is why I have the P0410 sensor on my Crossfire (It's been on for over a year now). I cleaned the outside with water and tried yanking it out with a pliers, and still it is stuck. Any ideas on how to pull it out. I should mention I already checked my fuses and the RCM board is in great shape.

Thanks!

 

I got my RCM replacement here:

https://smile.amazon.com/Standard-Mo...ype=automotive

 

Best price I've seen on one in some time.

 

I got this code and a shop said they tested the relay and everything was good... he said it's the computer that's not working right. He says I need a new computer which is $3000 from the dealer, no way I have that money. My car does this thing where it shakes at an idle and sometimes when you try to hit the gas pedal the car doesn't want to accelerate, sometimes dies and the BAS ESP light will come on then go off. If anyone can help me that would be great or else it looks like I have to get a new car.

 

The P0410 fault is not serious, the air pump should run for up,to 30 seconds when started from cold.The pump should then shut down, of it does not then it can run until it burns up the motor. You can disconnect the plug going to it to stop it.
It is possibly trickier to pinpoint the cause of the other problems but nowhere near a $3000 solution.

 

See my responses in red above.

If a "mechanic" does not understand what a car is doing, the "go to" response is "the computer is bad". The issue here is, your problems are probably, largely, electrically-based. Given that electronic troubleshooting is not taught ANYWHERE in the USA anymore, virtually no where you take ANY car will employ anyone with such skills. No matter WHAT car you drive, 'troubleshooting' is a matter of replacing expensive modules until the car runs again.

Our cars also suffer from a lack of support because the car is a Mercedes that is "supported' by Chrysler dealers - and the technical support chain back to Mercedes has been broken since the 2000's.

The way to get the car fixed is to find an independent shop with Mercedes experience. But again, even then, most 'mechanics' or "techs" are not trained in effective electronic troubleshooting.

In any event, if the car runs at all, and it does, I strongly suspect the "computer" (ECU) is NOT the problem here.

 

My advice:


He's right. The P0410 code should be fixed ONLY so the light goes out and therefore if something ELSE lights the light, you will know something else is wrong. The P0410 code will stop the car from passing an emissions test, but the air pump not working does nothing to make the car run poorly. The pump runs at cold startup just to preheat the CATS and lower emissions in the first few minutes of the engine running.



ABS LIGHT:
Again, this is often a wheel speed sensor OR an aging battery. There is NO test for the battery, no tests any "mechanic" does on the battery will troubleshoot this. If the battery is four years old or older, get it replaced and make sure the battery cable terminals are cleaned and tight. The cost of replacing the battery is lower than paying someone to chase this issue, and batteries have a limited life anyway.



ROUGH IDLE, etc:
If the car has over 80,000 miles, replace all 12 plugs and plug wires NOW. Verify the air cleaner/intake housing/engine cover is securely seated such that the air intake at the back is sealed will onto the MAF housing. Leaks around this gasket (and the gasket has rotted and fallen off before) will cause a rough idle.



GENERAL THOUGHT:
It is hard to verify the integrity of the block-to-chassis jumper. I came up with a way around this - then James1549 came up with a cool, IMO better, fix for this. I have used his trick to fix two cars with odd electrical issues. Let me find his thread and I'll post it here.



You should be able to find a shop to do these fixes if you don't want to do them yourself.

 

What year is the car?
How many miles on it?
How old is the battery?
Has the car been cared for well?
Standard or auto transmission?
All these things help, you could have a Mustang with what you told us.

 

As promised:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post906248

 

It's a 2006 with about 112000 miles I've had it for almost 2 year and got the battery tested it was fine.. replaces the maf sensor, alternator, 02 sensors. I bought it as a salvage title.. it had flood damage but I've had no problems with the car besides this now.

 

?

Hi. I have a 2004 SRT6 showing a P0410 code. The air pump starts and runs for 30/40 secs - which I believe is about right. My question is : Can I assume that the relay module is working since the pump appears to be doing its job?

Suggestions appreciated.

Phaedrus1939

 

I've had my fair share of P0410 code issues over the years. It took awhile but I finally found the contacts in the RCM had lost their plating so even though the air pump seem to run properly I surmised the contacts might be 'chattering' and throwing the code. Fortunately getting a new RCM on Amazon resolved the issue. Keep your old RCM and have it repaired (forgot the forum members name who offers this service) and then you'll have a good spare!

https://www.google.com/search?q=Stan...hrome&ie=UTF-8

Larger Google search:

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...Hdb-Ci8Q2SsIDw

 

The name for RCM repair is tighed1.

 

 

FYI. I just started my 05 roadster after it had been stored for several months. The check engine light came on with this error code. I cleaned the ground wire connection and it cleared the check engine light. I'll report if it comes back. Thanks.

 

I have this error message. Mechanic said when the secondary air pump went on he could feel air coming out from around the pump. He indicated the pump needed replacement. Does this sound right?