When you say it doesn't start do you mean it doesn't even turn over or it turns over it just
won't start? That small detail right there is key as to what direction to point you in.

PS: Crossfire's are a thing of love, if a no start makes you want to sell it then it's not the car for you

 

You mean you actually want to DRIVE it ?
Take it out where all those other UGLY cars can have a shot at it ?
It's best to just leave it in the garage and admire it daily, grab a beer, a lawn chair, go out to the garage, crank up some tunes on the CD/radio and just chill out !
( insurance and tag fees are also a lot cheaper that way )

 

I can't wait to drive it. Like really drive it. Not limp it around hoping it doesn't break down. This week coming up should be great. 75% chance I get a ticket.

 

Great write up and directions, helped me out just this weekend. This is my second month of ownership and on my way to work last week the Crossfire died out of the blue. After a tow home I checked the solder on the front relay and with my old eyes it looked fine. A pic with the smart phone showed it looked like the example loose solder joint, reflowed and she's running again. Knowing these "issues" in advance of purchase made me think, the detailed support of this forum helped me to take the step toward ownership. I feel a donation coming on, sure saved a bundle on a repair bill.

 

The list of fixes are an insurance policy that I jumped on when I first looked to buy an old 2004. I found the link and figured out what to prioritize and do first. RCM resolder, sticky key fix, new Bosch crankshaft position sensor and new extra key over the first 3-4 months. My hats off for those that produced it and keep it current!!!!

 

Got stranded for a few minutes today until the problem fixed itself. Turned the key and no crank.
After removing key a few times, opening/closing doors, locking/unlocking doors, and just waiting about 5 or 10 minutes, the car cranked over like normal.


Did not ready this lengthy thread for all the symptoms, but here's what I THINK I observed happening.


Lights on dash worked. Didn't notice if I heard fuel pump. Door locks worked, I was able one time to move the automatic out of park, but another time I could not. (I may be mistaken here, and forgot to turn the key, but I think that was the case).
I noticed the spoiler light would come on or flash on the dash, but it was in the down position.
My outside temperature was saying something really high, like 113 degrees, but it was not that hot outside. Maybe that's an engine bay temperature when the car is sitting ? I heard the fan under the hood run at least one of the times I turned the car to the crank and on position.


I only have the car 3 or 4 months, and this is the first this has happened. I've already been through the sticky key problem, that happened without any warning and before I even knew about that problem.


I'm hoping I can drive today and tomorrow without having to work on it, and do the RCM fix this weekend. And I'll check the battery, cables should be tight since I had them off for the sticky key fix. I'll provide an update.

 

If you also got an BAS/ABS fault light along with your symptoms it could be the Traction Control Relay.
If the radiator fan spun up realllly fast, it's most likely the Engine Control Relay.
If just the Mystery No Start, the resoldering of the 3 bad joints will get ya back on the road!

 

Re-soldered my Relay Control Module pins today. Two of the pins seemed to show a separation around them, not correctly soldered. Hopefully this takes care of my one-time "turned key/no crank" problem.

 

I Want to send you a VERY BIG THANK YOU MAN ...i hope i just fixed the Problem !!!!....Virtualy i send you a Box of Beer from Germany ....

 

Hi, do you still trade the RCM for $10? If yes I try to take it out today and let you know once ready to be shipped out

 

DJ ( tighed1 ) does still do the repair on RCM's, but unfortunately inflation ( price of beer ) and USPS rates have both gone up so he now charges $30.
Still a bargain.

 

Had the 05 roadster have all the stated symptoms today for the 2nd time, decided to check the solder connections and found cracks in 2, same place you described, re soldered each and it is now symptom free. wing went down and no lights on instrument panel. Thanks FOR YOUR GREAT PICTURES.

 

We have just had the “mystery no start” issue while filling the car up at a gas station yesterday. After the “Green Flag” call-out mechanic had given up, it needed a flat bed truck to take the car back to a garage close to home (having sat by a fuel pump for 3 hours surrounded by breakdown cones). This morning I went to check on the car and it started after I twiddled with a few wires and a small unit to the side of the RCM, so I drove it home and, after reading this thread, took out and checked the RCM itself. It looks fine (photo attached). Does this mean we have a different problem, or could non-visible solder problems still be the cause.
Just to sum up what happened and the exact sequence of problems we had: I pulled up to re-fuel the car and selected park (auto box). The car in front of me moved away, so I tried to select drive, but the stick would not shift. I turned the ignition off and then tried to re-start. The dash lights came on, the spoiler went up, but no starter motor or mechanical noise. However windows, aircon, radio, central locking etc all worked. (The battery and alternator have been checked and both are fine.)
Any ideas are gratefully accepted. We were planning to drive the car into mainland Europe for the first time next Tuesday and had just picked the car up having spent £704 on a new compressor and other items for the aircon which stopped working earlier this year. Obviously those plans (and the extra insurance and breakdown cover that we have already paid for) are now in doubt.

 

Looks like cracks have started on the upper left 3 solder pads. As long as it is out have it done.

How old is the battery? 3-4 years old it's easier to replace it that hunt for weird symptoms related to a weak battery.

Do you have a voltmeter?

 

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Middle pad see the slightly grayer circles just outside the pin sticking through? That is where the solder is stressed around the pin and needs resolder, especially the left one.

 

Fantastic, thank you for such quick responses, we will definitely get the RCM resoldered. The battery is about 3 years old and has just been checked with a volt meter by a friend who is a retired mechanic, he said it was ok. The car has only done 31,000 miles since new.

The problem we have is the planned trip to Europe and given the fact it is an intermittent problem, we have lost confidence in the car. Just to add a little bit of information, we have checked, sanded and cleaned the earth connections on fender. We are trying to cover anything and everything that could have caused the problem. Will do what has been suggested, anything else worth checking?

Thanks again for all your help, the last thing we want to do is get rid of the car.

 

A voltmeter test with the car running will tell you the alternator is good or not. A static battery voltage will tell you the amount of charge or shorted cell but a load test will tell you the capacity of the battery and if it meets spec.

3 Years on a battery? Replacing won't hurt. Check the ground at the block for corrosion, resolder the RCM, by a Bosch crank position sensor and keep it and the tools to change it in the glove box. Have two key FOB's and you are good for the trip. No need to sell.

Some other info here.... https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ownership.html

 

Thanks for the reply.
The battery was tested with the engine off and running and my friend (retired motor mechanic) said that the charge in the battery and from the alternator to the battery was okay. However, we will take your advice and buy a new battery just to be certain. We already have two key fobs. We will get the soldering done tomorrow if possible. Re: crank position sensor, just looked at a video on how to do this and I think we may need to get this done at a service centre/garage, looks like a job too far for me.

 

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