Check Engine Light
I checked the owners manual and the service manual but there seems to be no method to read the engine codes without a OBD III scanner. Does anyone know how to read the codes with out a scanner. All of my prior vehicles allowed you to use a key on/off/on sequence to trigger the codes which you could look up in the service manual. I really don't want to take all of my race stickers, race shocks and exhaust system off before I take it in to a dealer unless I know it is something serious that I cannot fix myself.
Frank
Frank
Originally Posted by North Dallas
Can't tell you how to read the codes but have you fueled you vehicle with the engine running? That will kick your engine light on.
a check engine light usually comes on when...the gas cap is not tight or an air filter needs replaced. once fixed...the light should automatically reset.
I disconnected the battery and the MIL went away. I had ran the fuel down pretty far before I tanked up and put in 15.939 gallons in the 15.8 gallon tank. I may have uncovered the fuel pickup and that set off the MIL (check engine light). I never did feel an engine miss or anything. I will see if it comes back on in the next few days.
Thanks for the responses.
Frank
Thanks for the responses.
Frank
Originally Posted by North Dallas
[...] but have you fueled you vehicle with the engine running?
1st step: Turn off engine!
2nd step: Open gas cap.
And so on...
It wasn't in the middle of nowhere but a big gas station in L.A.
Should you ever drive a car in Eur be sure to turn off the engine. People here wouldn't understand. For them it's a serious delict. *grin* You could even get a $45 ticket for "leaving the car without removing the ignition key". No bullsh*t!
Last edited by chxf; Jun 28, 2005 at 05:53 PM.
I took the car to the dealer and they replaced the MAF. Within a week the check engine light was on again. I purchased a DBR the reads the codes and allows you to erase them. The DBR indicated a lean condition on both banks. I took the engine cover off to check to see if I had the K&N problem causing the MAF too go bad. I found that the molded rubber hose that connects the crankcase ventilation port on the passenger side of the engine to the intake manifold was split and allowed the engine to suck air. I cut off the bad section and reconnected it to the port on the valve cover. I also put a zip tie around it to hold it onto the port and to support the hose in a area that is apparently stressed. The check engine light has not yet come back on.
Just something else to be aware of if you have a check engine light problem. You can hear a very slight hiss as if there is a vacuum leak with the engine running if you have this problem. It probably does not hurt to check the hoses in any event. A 5 minute DIY sure beats taking the time to get it to a dealer and then do without the car for a week. In any event, the dealer apparently did not find the problem when they had the car.
Just something else to be aware of if you have a check engine light problem. You can hear a very slight hiss as if there is a vacuum leak with the engine running if you have this problem. It probably does not hurt to check the hoses in any event. A 5 minute DIY sure beats taking the time to get it to a dealer and then do without the car for a week. In any event, the dealer apparently did not find the problem when they had the car.
My engine light kept going on and off for weeks. It would come on and stay on for several days and then go off. The dealer replaced the sensor. Running great and no engine light.
I'll get the part # and post on here about my resolution. Some folks were having problems w/ this same issue and the code was not coming up.
I'll get the part # and post on here about my resolution. Some folks were having problems w/ this same issue and the code was not coming up.
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Jul 21, 2015 11:41 AM
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