Getting a ride up there at lunch time to check it out. Only thing I can think of is that the ball on the end is worn/lose or something and is causing too much play. Worse case I guess it could have pulled some threads out but that is unlikely and they probably would have said that to begin with. Again these things are so solid I'm not sure what it could be wrong really. Fingers crossed for a dumbass mechanic or needing a 20 dollar end. They initially wanted to order the factory part to replace it and then tack on an alignment, that's not going to happen

 

Your numbers look right. I have one that is not on the car that I had boxed up and waiting to send back to MikeR for him to inspect becuase of a sqeaking issue, but I still have it naturally........

I can take what ever measurements you need and post some pics if it will help?

 

Appreciate the offer! Went at lunch to check it but the guy that was working on it was MIA out at lunch so I wasted my lunch break basically. I told them just to fail it and ill go pick it up after work. I mean there isn't much to them so it can't be all that bad. I drive it every day so if it was messed up bad I would like to think I would have noticed by look or feel at this point. Again fingers crossed for issue with the end and not the spacers/rod as those are Mikes handiwork Worst case I have to go the DIY camber arm build route to do a full replacement. Always something

 

Will be taking it out this weekend to look. After talking to the mechanic he said when it was lifted there was too much play when push/pulling on the top of the wheel. Will believe it when I see it.

 

I lost the nut that holds the arm on twice. I'll bet it's a simple fix.

Les

 

Good to know, thanks as always Les!

 

Post some pics of what you find. I always worried that the nut would loosen but every time I check it, it is still torqued. I continue to have sqeaking noises from the rear and would like to remedy that one day.

 

Will do, I'm still on the squeak hunt too. I think the last bit of ugly weather has hit so ill be back on the case soon. Have you checked the lower shock bolt? Mine was rusty and was causing quite a high pitch squeak at one point. Took it out, brushed it off and tightened back up good and it got rid of that one. Pretty sure the rest of the audible squeaks on the inside are from those sway bushings. Going back to original worn ones, maybe ill check this and do those at the same time.

 

Great feedback. When I replaced my OEM shocks with teh adjustable Koni's teh squeaking went away for a month or so but slowly came back. I will have to check this out. When I replaced the worn OEM sway bar bushings with the energy suspension urethane ones I applied the provided grease and the squeaking was quieted but did not dissapear, and it has come back slowly as well.

 

Checked after work. Jacked up the driver side (good) and pushed/pulled around the wheel, no play. Checked passenger side and initially I didn't notice anything. Took wheel off, all nuts and bolts accounted for. Wheel back on and pushed/pulled and between like 3-6 o'clock there was noticable play + noise.

When pushing on it and looking at the rod end towards the center of the car this is what I see.
(Sorry for vertical iPhone vid, and ugly winter grime :/ )

I flipped the arm around, tightened everything up and tried again. Had the same play although I couldn't see the rod end shown above anymore. The one that was visible didn't seem to have the same problem.

Both ***** spun pretty freely when I had the bar out but they both felt the same.
(...no jokes please :P)

Should I be looking at anything else? Was thinking about swapping the driver side arm to confirm the issue but didn't feel up to the task tonight :P

Thanks guys!

 

QA rod end is shot and needs to be replaced. no big deal

 

Much easier than messing with it more order placed. Thanks guys!

 

Yep. Teflon liner is worn out. Get the highest quality one you can, the chinese ones break very easily.

 

I have an extra one from MikeR that I could send you. I was talking with him about sourcing the poly lined ones to quiet it down and try to see how they wear. PM me, I can send it out tomorrow via USPS for 2 day delivery for $6

 

Forgot to follow up, end replaced and inspection passed last week some time. Was easy except for getting the spacers out! They had somehow rusted a bit and basically became one with the end. A lot of messing around and they finally came free. Mixed the two sets up when they went back in, as long as one side comes out easy the other is doable. Both stuck is a PITA!

 

So was the end actually damaged? If so, what was the material and where did you purchase them? Thanks for the info!

 

The end was just worn I guess. I'm not sure if it just wore naturally or if there was a pothole or camber/sway contact that helped things along the way. It was not damaged until I worked it over trying to get the spacers out . I wanted to purchase directly from QA1 as they had the cheapest price (18 I think) but on my ipad I couldn't add the items to the cart so I just picked them up from Jeggs instead just to get things moving quickly. They charge a 9 dollar handling fee so if I was not in a hurry I probably would have used another place to save a few bucks. All in all pretty painless and the end was the QA1 XM10

 

I am bringing this thread back to life so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

I have been running MikeR's camber and sway bar links for several years and am getting some noise from the heim joints. I was wondering if anyone has a lock on replacements, maybe something poly or more durable. I have raced the car several times, but only put on 10K miles and they are pretty loose. More than safe, but annoying because of the sound they make.

Any help is very much appreciated, if no one responds, I will do the research and post my results.

 

The new kit from Ground Control is due out any day now. I wonder if their end joints would be the same thread and would work, or if they'd even sell just the joints. Perhaps the price will be right on purchasing just their adjustable camber links complete?

 

I still have not seen the curved bar in any of the pictures they have put up, I would only switch to them if it was curved (or if getting the whole kit)

Boiler, I would take a look at the DIY camber arm thread and the one Rudy started. The type of ends used for those should be quiet in comparison, no clue on longevity but I doubt they would be any worse. I found plenty of those style with left/right threads and the same size shank(?) that will fit the MikeR arms. I was about to order before the accident to test them out but never had the chance.