I replaced the rear brake pads about a week ago, and today I noticed that when I'm reversing, when I apply the brake, I hear a clicking/popping sound. It seems to be loudest when I let off the pedal.

I removed the wheels this afternoon and everything seems tight. What the heck did I do wrong?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgR-p...ature=youtu.be - Video of the noise. Sorry for poor quality.

 

You put the pin and clip in correctly?

 

I believe so - here's what both sides look like:


I did not remove the brake hose (per service manual), just let the caliper rest on something so it wasn't hanging loosely.

 

I expect you hitting the parking brake springs with the studs - tick tick tick. Woody

 

Eh? Wouldn't that prevent the parking brake from engaging then? I didn't have the parking brake on when I swapped the pads. Would I just have to remove and remount the caliper? Pardon the ignorance, this just seems weird.

And by studs - you mean the bolts holding the caliper on?

 

No, he means that a wheel mounting stud is too long. I assumed you did not change the studs at all or add the locking stud on that wheel. long studs go through the flange too far and hit the parking brake mechanism, a common error.

 

No, I didn't change them, although I do have a locking lug, but I'm pretty sure it's an OEM one.

 

Just tried remounting both calipers and re-torquing wheels to 80 ft/lb and still makes the popping sound. I'm lost.

Would I really need to bleed the brakes or anything? Can't imagine I would've damaged anything non-brake related.

Also, when I installed the pads I compressed the piston on each side. Would that matter? I don't see how else the pads would've installed right without it.

 

I would take the pads back out and check that they are the exact same size as the old ones. It sounds like the pads shifting in the caliper housing.

 

Those pads seem high on the rotor, if I recall there was about a 1/32 or so distance from the top of the rotor to the pad and this left a lip on the rotor from wear. The depth of the lip would depend on the extent of the rotor wear, if the new pad had to wear itself to match the lip it may make the pad tilt a little when applying the brake and click back to align flat again. I do not know how long you have worn the groove that would need too be there. The piston would be biased as well, aligning with the pad and not be square in its bore.

 

I may be wrong but doesn't the spring tension lock into that pin in the middle of the hole above the rotor?? It looks like the pin is too far in/out and the slot in the pin is not lined up with the spring clip.

 

Hi GG
I'm thinking he has the wrong pads on there and the pad is hitting the spring. The pads should be able to go under the spring as they wear. Looks awfully tight to me as it is now.
When I said before that the rotor was to high on the pads I should have seen that the pads were too high on the rotor.

The pin is just under flush on both sides as I recall and should be tapped in a bit more. I think it is in the hole both sides now.

 

Well, I put the old pads back on and the issue is resolved. Aside from the actual thickness of the pad, there doesn't seem to be a size difference between the old and new pads. The new pads are Rotex Golds, so I assumed they would work. The actual braking surface of the pads was the same, just a difference in thickness.



I had put the teardrop-shaped shim on the new pads, and there also seem to be another metallic shim on the old pad covering most of the back, but wasn't easily removed, so I left it attached. Didn't do anything different when I re-mounted the old ones, so not sure what was up.

 

Maybe it is just the effect of the pic, but the new pad 'back' looks much wider than the the OEM. Did you compare size, back to back? Now go buy some ceramic Posi-Quiets and install them.

James

 

So, changed rear rotor pads this is what I ordered from RockAuto (CENTRIC 30107790 (Daily Driver) Ceramic Pads w/Shims and Hardware) and now when driving I can hear something metallic rubbing intermittently. What could be the issue? It stops fine and did not bleed the rear but had the cover off brake reservoir.

 

One side or both ?
Jack it up by the pumpkin and place jack stands, remove jack and run it in drive.
See if you can locate noise that way.
If not remove wheels and run it again.

 

Or triple check the install of the brake pads? Might have mis-aligned something making the pads or hardware rub against something it shouldn't? Good luck finding this, my centrics went in without a hitch, hope your issue is minor.

.

 

Thanks ala_xfire and GraphiteGhost, seems from the driver's side, jacked it up and tried to bend back the brake shield, drove it some and the noise decreased alot but can still hear it but not as pronounced. So may have to bend the top and bottom some more this weekend when I got some more time, no damage in driving it like this right?

On a side note since the rotor looks like it is rusted to the hub would a 3 jaw puller work on getting this off since when I tried to pull off and used P Blaster nothing happened. Used a rubber mallet.

 

Sometimes you have to back off the shoe adjuster for the E brake if the shoes have worn into the drum.

 

So how does one back that off? Saw something at PelicanParts.com for the R170 about it being at 1 o'clock but all I seem to hit was the black spring. From the pictures posted from bucketlisted, the rotor is off and on mine the rotor right now is rusted to the hub. So I posed the question of using a 3 jaw puller to get the rear rotor off. If not what esle would you suggest since I cannot see that adjuster to back off..