DIY Rear Cambers
Re: DIY Rear Cambers
Here is how i prevented the squeaks.
The Speedway bushings are 1/2 inch internally. The Crossfire uses 12mm bolts for the upper arm. This makes for a sloppy fit when you try to bolt everything up. I purchased four 1/2 inch bolts in the appropriate length. Also, i found eight thin 1/2 inch stainless fender washers. They need to be thin, to allow them to fit between the inner bushing and the mounting tabs. Going to 1/2 inch removes the slop in the system. Also, you will need marine grease. The brand i used is called "Green Grease". When you re-install the joints, use the marine grease in the joint. Remove the bushing, and coat both the bushing and the inner bore of the bushing. Lube the one side of two of the washers, and reinstall in the inner mount. This will tighten the bushing in the mounts, and force the joint to rotate on the busing, not the bushing rotating on the bolt.
The outer bushing needs two stainless washers also. Grease the same way, and reuse the large three pointed washer. This washer prevents the arm from falling off if the bushing fails
The inner mounts can be drilled out with a step drill bit with a need drive, and a flexible drive extension. I'll post pics later. The outer mount can be drilled with either a long drill bit, or a standard 1/2 inch bit and a right angle drill.
I'll post the pics i have, and update this post soon.
The Speedway bushings are 1/2 inch internally. The Crossfire uses 12mm bolts for the upper arm. This makes for a sloppy fit when you try to bolt everything up. I purchased four 1/2 inch bolts in the appropriate length. Also, i found eight thin 1/2 inch stainless fender washers. They need to be thin, to allow them to fit between the inner bushing and the mounting tabs. Going to 1/2 inch removes the slop in the system. Also, you will need marine grease. The brand i used is called "Green Grease". When you re-install the joints, use the marine grease in the joint. Remove the bushing, and coat both the bushing and the inner bore of the bushing. Lube the one side of two of the washers, and reinstall in the inner mount. This will tighten the bushing in the mounts, and force the joint to rotate on the busing, not the bushing rotating on the bolt.
The outer bushing needs two stainless washers also. Grease the same way, and reuse the large three pointed washer. This washer prevents the arm from falling off if the bushing fails
The inner mounts can be drilled out with a step drill bit with a need drive, and a flexible drive extension. I'll post pics later. The outer mount can be drilled with either a long drill bit, or a standard 1/2 inch bit and a right angle drill.
I'll post the pics i have, and update this post soon.
Pics would be appreciated. What you say makes sense though. I believe the bushings are actually spinning in the bar end and making noise because they're not lubricated.
Originally Posted by turbomar
Spray Krown T40 on the heim joints
I'm using the ones from this thread and they don't have a heim joint on either end.My sway bar links have a heim at the top end, but they're not making any noise.
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Re: DIY Rear Cambers
Not a Heim or rose joint, but still a rod end.
Here are pics of how I drilled out the inner mount for 1/2 inch bolts.
I reversed the arrangement to do the other side of the mount. Everything is 1/4 hex drive, including the step bit. I had the flex drive, but had to purchase the bit. I spent money for a good one at the local hardware store. The driver is nothing but an electric screwdriver. I added a little lube, and let the bit work slowly.
I don't have a pic of the washers, but they are 1/2 stainless fender washers. I brought a caliper, and found the thinnest washers.
Installed:
I don't have a picture of drilling out the outboard mounting hole unfortunately. I used a short 1/2 bit, and an angle drill. I also used a drill guide.
The washers were a slip fit in the inner tabs. They went in with a slight press with a wooden stick. I would call the fit similar to the stock parts. The bolts tightened up nice after assembly. No noise at all with the green grease.
Here are pics of how I drilled out the inner mount for 1/2 inch bolts.
I reversed the arrangement to do the other side of the mount. Everything is 1/4 hex drive, including the step bit. I had the flex drive, but had to purchase the bit. I spent money for a good one at the local hardware store. The driver is nothing but an electric screwdriver. I added a little lube, and let the bit work slowly.
I don't have a pic of the washers, but they are 1/2 stainless fender washers. I brought a caliper, and found the thinnest washers.
Installed:
I don't have a picture of drilling out the outboard mounting hole unfortunately. I used a short 1/2 bit, and an angle drill. I also used a drill guide.
The washers were a slip fit in the inner tabs. They went in with a slight press with a wooden stick. I would call the fit similar to the stock parts. The bolts tightened up nice after assembly. No noise at all with the green grease.
Last edited by nhmercracer; 09-16-2013 at 03:04 PM.
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Re: DIY Rear Cambers
Here is how i prevented the squeaks.
The Speedway bushings are 1/2 inch internally. The Crossfire uses 12mm bolts for the upper arm. This makes for a sloppy fit when you try to bolt everything up. I purchased four 1/2 inch bolts in the appropriate length. Also, i found eight thin 1/2 inch stainless fender washers. They need to be thin, to allow them to fit between the inner bushing and the mounting tabs. Going to 1/2 inch removes the slop in the system. Also, you will need marine grease. The brand i used is called "Green Grease". When you re-install the joints, use the marine grease in the joint. Remove the bushing, and coat both the bushing and the inner bore of the bushing. Lube the one side of two of the washers, and reinstall in the inner mount. This will tighten the bushing in the mounts, and force the joint to rotate on the busing, not the bushing rotating on the bolt.
The outer bushing needs two stainless washers also. Grease the same way, and reuse the large three pointed washer. This washer prevents the arm from falling off if the bushing fails
The inner mounts can be drilled out with a step drill bit with a need drive, and a flexible drive extension. I'll post pics later. The outer mount can be drilled with either a long drill bit, or a standard 1/2 inch bit and a right angle drill.
I'll post the pics i have, and update this post soon.
The Speedway bushings are 1/2 inch internally. The Crossfire uses 12mm bolts for the upper arm. This makes for a sloppy fit when you try to bolt everything up. I purchased four 1/2 inch bolts in the appropriate length. Also, i found eight thin 1/2 inch stainless fender washers. They need to be thin, to allow them to fit between the inner bushing and the mounting tabs. Going to 1/2 inch removes the slop in the system. Also, you will need marine grease. The brand i used is called "Green Grease". When you re-install the joints, use the marine grease in the joint. Remove the bushing, and coat both the bushing and the inner bore of the bushing. Lube the one side of two of the washers, and reinstall in the inner mount. This will tighten the bushing in the mounts, and force the joint to rotate on the busing, not the bushing rotating on the bolt.
The outer bushing needs two stainless washers also. Grease the same way, and reuse the large three pointed washer. This washer prevents the arm from falling off if the bushing fails
The inner mounts can be drilled out with a step drill bit with a need drive, and a flexible drive extension. I'll post pics later. The outer mount can be drilled with either a long drill bit, or a standard 1/2 inch bit and a right angle drill.
I'll post the pics i have, and update this post soon.
I have MikeR rear adjustable camber and sway bar links. Great product but bad squeaking. Thanks for sharing your solution
Last edited by JesseJamessrt6; 09-16-2013 at 10:15 PM.
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Re: DIY Rear Cambers
Stock inner bolt is approximately 2 1/4 inches long. So buy 1/2 by 2 1/2 length fine thread washers, and a locknut.
Stock outer bolt is approximately 3 inches long. So 1/2 by three inches should do.
These length DO NOT include the bolt head. Measurements are of the bolt shank only. This is the way they are commonly spec'd.
Stock outer bolt is approximately 3 inches long. So 1/2 by three inches should do.
These length DO NOT include the bolt head. Measurements are of the bolt shank only. This is the way they are commonly spec'd.
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Re: DIY Rear Cambers
Just had the Konis installed (Thanx Rob for the Black Friday Deal!)
Still, I'm a little leary about using SS threads and rods. I've stripped way too many threads in the shop as SS still seems too soft and gummy for my liking.
MikeS
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Still, I'm a little leary about using SS threads and rods. I've stripped way too many threads in the shop as SS still seems too soft and gummy for my liking.
MikeS
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However, I do wonder what alloy SS you've been using. I am not a metallurgist, but carbon steels and SS come a large variety of alloys. The SS we normally use in our automotive work is anything but "soft and gummy". In fact, it is dang HARD. The SS bolts, flanges etc on stock exhaust systems are way harder than carbon steel. Try cutting those fool things with a hack saw. Have to use a zip wheel as it dulls the teeth on the hacksaw blade. We used all SS rod ends, bolts etc on our formula ford cars back in the day when I actually drove one of those things.
Last edited by hpmotors; 12-26-2013 at 11:39 AM.
Re: DIY Rear Cambers
However, I do wonder what alloy SS you've been using. I am not a metallurgist, but carbon steels and SS come a large variety of alloys. The SS we normally use in our automotive work is anything but "soft and gummy". In fact, it is dang HARD. The SS bolts, flanges etc on stock exhaust systems are way harder than carbon steel. Try cutting those fool things with a hack saw. Have to use a zip wheel as it dulls the teeth on the hacksaw blade. We used all SS rod ends, bolts etc on our formula ford cars back in the day when I actually drove one of those things.
Non-magnetic and strong SS is a short list. We use A-286. You can get 1300 MPa yield, 1400 MPa tensile. It's the only precipitation hardened austenitic, essentially an iron-base superalloy.
And don't forget Inconel. Very difficult metal to shape and machine using traditional techniques due to rapid work hardening!
Last edited by syfi; 07-03-2014 at 05:57 AM.
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Re: DIY Rear Cambers
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Re: DIY Rear Cambers
Hi guys,
This might be a dumb question... Once the parts are all here..how do I put them together? I know I know... Is it one end with LH and the other with RH? Or are they dependent on the side of the car they will be on? Ex: one set all LH and the other set all RH. Seriously...I have the parts in the online cart. I'm doing this =)
This might be a dumb question... Once the parts are all here..how do I put them together? I know I know... Is it one end with LH and the other with RH? Or are they dependent on the side of the car they will be on? Ex: one set all LH and the other set all RH. Seriously...I have the parts in the online cart. I'm doing this =)
Re: DIY Rear Cambers
From what I remember there is only one way to thread them into the tube. One set of threads on the end of the tube is for LH and the other set of threads is for RH. The idea is that once both ends are threaded into the tube you should be able to hold the ends tight, rotate the tube and the ends will either come closer together or drift further apart.
Make sure you install the lock nuts between the tube and the ends so you can lock them down when adjusted properly.
Make sure you install the lock nuts between the tube and the ends so you can lock them down when adjusted properly.
Re: DIY Rear Cambers
Nope... Fronts only require the install of the eccentric alignment bolts. You'll need 4 ea for the front. One for caster and one for camber on driver side front and same for passenger side front. The aftermarket/OEM eccentric bolts will allow +/-1.5 degree adjustment which should be plenty to get you in spec. The part number for one bolt is: 2023300118. The Febi-Bilsteins are essentially the same bolts as the OEM Mercedes eccentrics. The Febi ones I got from AutohauzAZ were stamped with DYTSA which is a well respected vehicle bolt mfg. You're better off sticking with the Febi price wise.
Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)
Update 6/29/2019: Another supplier... FCP Euro
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merc...kit-2023300118
Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)
Update 6/29/2019: Another supplier... FCP Euro
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/merc...kit-2023300118
Last edited by syfi; 06-29-2019 at 07:38 AM.
Re: DIY Rear Cambers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all57162
Summit seems to be out of the gold rod, there is a link to the same thing in black on above URL.
James1549 said 12 inches is a good ballpark to be rid of the excess negative camber. The rod is listed as being 9.0 inches long, is the other 3 inches (1.5 in per end) of installed length coming from the exposed threads of the 2 rod ends? That seems like a lot.
How long is the threaded part of the rod end? Hopefully there's plenty inside the tube. Would 10 inches tubes be more suitable? Summit lists those also.
Summit seems to be out of the gold rod, there is a link to the same thing in black on above URL.
James1549 said 12 inches is a good ballpark to be rid of the excess negative camber. The rod is listed as being 9.0 inches long, is the other 3 inches (1.5 in per end) of installed length coming from the exposed threads of the 2 rod ends? That seems like a lot.
How long is the threaded part of the rod end? Hopefully there's plenty inside the tube. Would 10 inches tubes be more suitable? Summit lists those also.
Re: DIY Rear Cambers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all57162
Summit seems to be out of the gold rod, there is a link to the same thing in black on above URL.
James1549 said 12 inches is a good ballpark to be rid of the excess negative camber. The rod is listed as being 9.0 inches long, is the other 3 inches (1.5 in per end) of installed length coming from the exposed threads of the 2 rod ends? That seems like a lot.
How long is the threaded part of the rod end? Hopefully there's plenty inside the tube. Would 10 inches tubes be more suitable? Summit lists those also.
Summit seems to be out of the gold rod, there is a link to the same thing in black on above URL.
James1549 said 12 inches is a good ballpark to be rid of the excess negative camber. The rod is listed as being 9.0 inches long, is the other 3 inches (1.5 in per end) of installed length coming from the exposed threads of the 2 rod ends? That seems like a lot.
How long is the threaded part of the rod end? Hopefully there's plenty inside the tube. Would 10 inches tubes be more suitable? Summit lists those also.
Let's put it this way...9" tube w/ both rod ends screwed all the way in will give around 11-1/4", so 12" will expose maybe 3/8" of threaded shank on each end. So yes, most of the threaded shank is in the tube.
Price for the same mfg rod I quoted from EastCoastSpeed is cheaper w/ free shipping.
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