These are my DIY Adjustable Rear Camber Arms that will alleviate the common premature wearing of the inner tread on the rear tires of our Crossfires. Since the OEM rear cambers have no way to adjust the camber, these will allow the top of the tire to be adjusted outward, thus standing the tire up straighter. The parts I used and have listed below can be assembled easily by anyone and then installed by yourself or by the tire store mechanic. *The included video @ the end of this document shows what’s involved with the installation process!

**WARNING**These are for strict use on OEM height N/As & SRTs ONLY. Use of these on lowered cars will result in the sway bar banging the crap out of the camber and causing possible damage, failure and annihilation!

Here's this entire thread condensed into a pdf file:

Syfi's DIY Rear Camber Arms.pdf


Here's a breakdown of the parts I used....

From: SpeedwayMotors.com
(Make sure to select the STR type from the dropdown for the straight thread)

91008001-STR..... FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END RH..... 2 ea..... $12.99 ea..... $25.98
Speedway Forged Steel 4-Bar Rod Ends, 5/8-18 RH Thread - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

91008002-STR..... FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END LH..... 2 ea..... $14.99 ea..... $29.98
Speedway Forged Steel 4-Bar Rod End, 5/8-18 LH Thread, Straight Shank - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

1750446..... JAM NUT 5/8" LH RAW..... 2 ea..... $0.99 ea..... $1.98
Steel Jam Nut, 5/8-18 LH - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

1750246..... JAM NUT 5/8" RH RAW..... 2 ea..... $0.99 ea..... $1.98
Steel Jam Nut, 5/8-18 RH - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Sub Total $46.93
Shipping $11.31
Tax $4.09
Total $62.33

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3 choices for Adjustment tubes... 2 ea needed for the kit, one per side.

Choice 1) Jeggs Allstar Performance #049-ALL57162 $11.59 ea. w/ Free Shipping... 2 ea.
Swedge Steel Tie-Rod Tube
> Black
> 5/8" Steel
> 7/8" O.D. x 9" lgth.
( Black ) Allstar Performance ALL57162, Allstar Swedged Steel Tie Rod Tubes | Allstar Performance

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Choice 2) Summit Racing has the Allstar Performance Steel Suspension Tubes which list the black anodized ones @ $11.59 ea. + shipping... 2 ea.
MPN: ALL57162
Thread Size: 5/8-18 in. RH/LH
Tube Length (in): 9.0 in.
Tube Style: Swedged
Tube Diameter (in): 0.875 in.
Tube Material: DOM Steel
( Black ) Allstar Performance Steel Suspension Tubes ALL57162 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

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Updated 8/8/2015
Choice 3) If you want to keep all parts in a single shipment, Speedway now has the AFCO Swaged Steel Tubes for $12.99 ea.
Material Type: Steel
Overall Length: 9.00"
Sold in Quantity: Each
Finish: Zinc
Tube O.D.: .625"
Thread Pitch: .875
Material Thickness:. 065"
MFG. Part #: 36179

( Zinc ) AFCO Swaged Steel Tube 7/8 Inch O.D. (5/8) Inch, 9 Inch Long

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Using Jeggs pricing:
Sub Total $23.18
Shipping $0.00
Tax $0.00
Total $23.18

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GRAND TOTAL: $85.51 / 2 pcs. set

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IMPORTANT UPDATE (2/12/2017) : Some members have noted that the metal insert included with the 4-bar ends have a inside diameter of 1/2", which could cause the smaller diameter bolt (12mm) that holds the end onto the bracket to "clunk". One of our members has found a properly sized insert that should solve this problem. These inserts have the same O.D. and length as do the Speedway sleeves but with slightly thicker wall with a 12mm I.D., which fit the bolts more tightly. They can be procured from Iron Rock Off Road. You'll need 4 ea to fix the 2 camber set ($4.99 ea.)....

12MM Sway Bar Link Bolt Sleeve - Iron Rock Off Road


No slop with the iron rock offroad sleeves...
no slop.jpg

Left is iron rock, right is speedway
no slop1.jpg

A Special Thanx to Jason Hudson!

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* Note: Use some marine grease (I used Aqua Shield - mfg: D.A. Stuart / Aqua Shield Grease) on the 4-bar, holder bolts and nylon inserts and on the threads to help lube the assembly. Run the lubed threads completely into and out of the tube to insure a clean thread fit. Some blue Locktite on the nuts will help keep the assembly locked down. Also, the use of 1/2" Fender washers may be required to tighten up the fit into the brackets, but mine fit fine without them.

** My 2-cents: I never did like the MikeR setup because of the moveable rod links which could possibly wear from vibration, the metal to metal rubbing of the heim socket end (which have become notorious for making noise and cause squeaking) and the materials used. I.E.- stainless threads going into aluminum. Both are too soft for my liking particularly where the threading is a concern. If not properly coated, the stainless can cause galvanic fracturing against the aluminum, a common problem where dissimilar metal contact is involved. And this can be accelerated where road salts are introduced.
My setup uses forged steel rod ends threaded into DOM swedged tubes which are more than strong enough. These have been tested on Modified Dirt & World Of Outlaw tracks with great success. Plus the rod ends are set into nylon which help absorb vibration and are much more durable than the OEM rubber type ends..

"DOH"- My Bad. I stand corrected. Still, I'm a little leery about using SS threads and rods. I've stripped way too many threads in the shop as SS still seems too soft and gummy for my liking.

UPDATE: 8/21/2020 - Prices have been updated!

4978241285_86eaee2327_z.jpg

camberarms.jpg

QCPHHl.jpg

Great YouTube vid showing the complete install process... Thanx to glencouls!






MikeS

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Definitely got my gears going... this is a super deal!

 

Thank you sify

 

Thanks for this thread. Did you happen to measure the overall or center bolt to center bolt length of the final installed product? I'm wondering if paying for a new alignment would really be necessary if I'm just trying to pull the tires in a little to reduce the inner wear.

 

These arms push the top of the tire out to reduce inner tire wear...

 

IIRC, the factory arms are either 11.5" or 11.75" center to center. I adjusted mine to 12". I used a large framing square to see how they measured against my driveway. At 12" they are still so slightly negative but very close to "0".

 

If I recall correctly MikeR used stainless steel rods. Aluminum was mentioned but dropped after some discussion.

 

Correct, Mike's were of all stainless steel construction

 

I got the parts and installed them on one side so far (last night). Seem to have done the trick. JEGS doesn't carry the swedge tubes anymore so Speedway may be the best bet. If you can't find them there they are stioll being made, just need to search by part number on Google.
Thanks for the tip, this saved me $275.
By the way, I originally ordered some of these camber arms from SpeedyBenz and after weeks of not getting them went to PayPal to get my money back. They gave it to me, and then the SpeedyBenz website was shut down. Apparently they are no longer making camber arms.
Cheers.

 

Thanks for the update Chill-e. I updated my original post with even cheaper options, including a choice of black anodized over gold anodized!

 

I've been troubleshooting some pretty bad 'creaking' coming from my rear suspension since I lowered my car and installed these camber arms and similar sway bar links.

I've taken it to one import shop who said "all of the bushings are squeaking. I wouldn't even know where to begin."
I took it to another shop that was much more helpful and we narrowed it down to the outside ends of these camber bars. Has anyone had this issue or have any suggestions?

 

Spray Krown T40 on the heim joints

 

Get some Boeshield T9. Best waterproof lubricant/protectant ever made. I'd pull the bolt out of the camber end, coat it and reassemble. Or just simply spray it on all the link ends. It's designed to penetrate metal pores and dissolve minor corrosion, then leave a resilient waxy coating that lasts for many months, yet will not harm painted surfaces. It's also non-conductive so this stuff is great on battery terminals too!

Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

 

Sounds like good stuff. I'll try to find some and try it out.
I tried some Silicone spray made by WD-40 and the squeaking went away for about a day, then comes back.

Thanks!

 

I must have gotten the last two sewdge tubes from jegs, ordered those and the other parts as mentioned from speedway, installed them today.

 

Hi Friends,
Can anybody support me?I am having the Crossfire 2004 .I cannot find winter tyres for the rear wheel 255/35/19 .But 255/40/19 is available in the market.So can i use this 255/40/19 dimension tyres.Will it make any trouble?Please support me with your replies.

 

Here's several 255/35/19 listed on TireRack...

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSe...35&diameter=19

 

The T9 lubricant that I ordered arrived and I applied it to either end on the camber arms today. I've been driving around town and the suspension is completely silent! :-)

I just hope it lasts a long time. I'll be happy even if I only have to reapply it every few months.

 

I'm starting to hear a little bit of squeaking again, but not nearly as bad.
Are there some kind of washers that would maybe help? It seems to me like the bushings in these bar-ends just aren't so great.

 

Here is how i prevented the squeaks.

The Speedway bushings are 1/2 inch internally. The Crossfire uses 12mm bolts for the upper arm. This makes for a sloppy fit when you try to bolt everything up. I purchased four 1/2 inch bolts in the appropriate length. Also, i found eight thin 1/2 inch stainless fender washers. They need to be thin, to allow them to fit between the inner bushing and the mounting tabs. Going to 1/2 inch removes the slop in the system. Also, you will need marine grease. The brand i used is called "Green Grease". When you re-install the joints, use the marine grease in the joint. Remove the bushing, and coat both the bushing and the inner bore of the bushing. Lube the one side of two of the washers, and reinstall in the inner mount. This will tighten the bushing in the mounts, and force the joint to rotate on the busing, not the bushing rotating on the bolt.

The outer bushing needs two stainless washers also. Grease the same way, and reuse the large three pointed washer. This washer prevents the arm from falling off if the bushing fails

The inner mounts can be drilled out with a step drill bit with a need drive, and a flexible drive extension. I'll post pics later. The outer mount can be drilled with either a long drill bit, or a standard 1/2 inch bit and a right angle drill.

I'll post the pics i have, and update this post soon.