If you wanna drop it, drop it :P Gotta test, play around and weigh your options. The camber kits are expensive if you need them but they are cheaper than replacing tires in the long run You can do the springs without the shocks but you will want to trim the bump stops on the back shocks so you don't bottom them out. The eibachs will stiffen your ride up over the NA springs but they are not super firm performance items. (SRT springs are stiffer) firmer shocks will enhance the handling further but I'm not familiar with anything but the Konis. I will say you can definitely tell the difference between the softest and firmest settings but I'm not sure where the other brands fall into the curve. If your stock items are worn I'm sure you will feel a difference but it's hard to say how much. I did springs and shocks at the same time so I can't say how much difference the items make individually. As stated before every car is a bit different, you won't know until you try.



Those are the same thing as the MB bolts. These are only for the front and give about .3 of change either way (some have gotten .5 I believe) if you look at the bolt you can see the slot. Depending on the direction you install them you either push the lower control arm out or pull it in. The same bolts can be used up front for caster adjustment as well. Again depending on the drop these may or may not be enough to get you in spec.

 

Anyone try these? I read a post that said our car is the R170 Mercedes and that parts were interchangeable.

Megan 2pc Rear Camber Arm Benz W208 A208 98 02 CLK 230 320 430 55 AMG | eBay

These would be awesome for the $ if they fit in the rear.

Here is another one that I found.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231095161781?lpid=82
Just reviewing all the options!

 

For those of you who are only looking for a mild lowering, you might want to consider replacing just the isolator pads for your stock springs. The only problem I'm finding is that there's no standard stock size for the pads, and that every car is a bit different. Hard to believe that, but... In any case these pads come in 5 different thickness, and you should be able to lower you car if you go with the 1 burl pad if you have a 4 or 5 burl on your car now. These are the sizes of the pads. They are fairly inexpensive ($10 - $15 each). As an example if you have 5 burl pads, and go to 1 burl, you will drop the car by 16mm.

1 burl = 5mm
2 burl = 9mm
3 burl = 13mm
4 burl = 17mm
5 burl = 21mm

 

DIY cambers for 1/2 the price of the Megans...

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post712854

And the Karlyns are the same as the OEMs. Non-adjustable.

 

Megans fit the budget! If they will work, I'd love to pull the trigger on them. I would love to just plug and play them!

 

DIY route will save ya nearly $100 bucks for the same type setup. Looked around for reviews on the Megans and I couldn't find any. Plus I'm a little leary with their mentioned use of "Lightweight Steel alloy" for the tubes and the " Reinforced Rubber Bushings". Also no mention on their site as far as the adjustment settings go. The setup I quoted have been race tested in the World Of Outlaws - more than adequate for our needs. I've had these on for nearly a year now and the rears are wearing perfectly. And I'm running 2 sizes over OEM (275/35-19). Add yes these are also plug & play! Money saved can go toward the tune!

 

Just had to do new front tires today. I had the vehicle aligned after installing Pro Kit and they said it's in spec, no camber bolts or kits needed! They said they have it in spec so we shall see!

BTW, when the tech installed the springs, he neglected to shave the bump stops. I'm not tracking the car, but I am concerned about going over bumps while in a turn. I plan to do the KYB's anyway when they are available again here in the states, so I might leave them until then.( hopefull a week or two).

I did take the car for a spin right after the spring install and all I can say is WOW. Much improved over the Limited Roadster Stock Springs with 133K miles on them.

Man I would be excited if I don't have to mess with camber at all! So much $ I have allocated to makeing sure I don't have to buy tires 3x a year, I'd love to spend it elsewhere.

 

Update.... Car is handling splendidly. I tried today, in a traffic circle to squeal tires as I went around it. This is a place I always see the traction light if I am getting on it and too my surprise, the Roadster stuck like glue! My mouth dropped wide open and I knew I had to tell the forum!

Eibach Pro Kit only! Stock Rims, and get this! Stock origional shocks! I have KYB's on order but I am afraid to mess with the car at all it is handling so well!


Before when I would slam on brakes, car would dip. Now, steady!

Before when I would red line accelerate, nose would pitch up. Now, steady!

This is how $2000 coilovers felt on my Bimmer! I love this car!

FYI.

I think it's very important to differentiate the Roadster from the SRT in these threads. SRT rides and handles stiffer with it's own stock springs than Eibach springs! For that car, this may be considered a downgrade, unless someone thought that the ride was harsh. My ride is actually a bit smoother over the bumps! The lowered center of gravity helps this car tremendously around turns! If you are in the SRT, the DIY Spring trim is the cheap way to go. H&R springs are suppose to help the car handle in an improved manner.

I would recommend the Pro Kit Springs as a first step in any roadster suspension refresh.

NEXT.... slight vibration from the steering wheel... I just got new tires for the front. I read somewhere that the tie rod ends may be the culprit? (assuming that I got a decent ballance from NTB on the front 2)

 

Slight Vibration still here, All tires re-balanced. Wheels re-torqued. I'm wondering if tie rod ends could be the cause? Or ball joints? All could be original (132k miles).

 

Has anyone had to replace control arms for vibration? Looks like there are 4 large *****, one at each corner that can wear. I drove a newer SL63 and that this is smooth as butter! My car can ride like that too!

 

I just finally recieved my KYB's shocks. I will be installing this week some time. I am looking to address the body roll next. I see that folks are doing a full bar replacement up front, AMG, SRT, HR etc.... and that its much easier to do a firmer bushing in the back as opposed to dropping the diff to get a rear bar in. So here it is, I have a limited that I will never track but I want it to hanld like a sports car, I want a recommendation for which bar, and a size for the bushings in the rear.

Thanks for everyone's help

 

NO Input huh...


I'm wondering what I should do next to tighten up the car.

sway bar and bushings
control arms
ball joints

???

 

whats the ID of the rear sway bar bushings on the Limited Car? Also, If I get new brackets too, whats the optimum size? I see tons on the SRT, but very little on the Limited.

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post699476

Pics and info in the thread above.

My 04 measured 19mm. The bushings did make it feel tighter but I did not like the fit. I would try to find new OEM ones and replace with those. (Or you could make poly versions and help us all out :P ) I looked at a few places online and after doing the measurements on mine, none of the universal kits I found would provide a perfect fit.

 

I have been examining your thread closely and almost bought the same kit, however, I measured the rear bar on my 05 Limited and the rear sway bar diameter is 15mm. I have found a bunch of honda and accura bushing and bracket sets. I may give one a try. For $20 it won't be a huge loss. The stock bracket has a spine in the middle of it and the stock bushing also has a spiney process in the center as seen in your photos. If you change the bushing style, I'm thinking you should also change the bracket to match the back side of the bushing, or I'd just buy bushing and use the stock bracket.

 

Had right front rim straightened and the car rides smooth as butter! Finally a great riding car that is fun to drive.

 

KYB install and rear sway bar links installed. Car is race ready, from a suspension standpoint. There is some rubbing up front in hard turns with change in elevation.

Any input on that guys?

 

Lowered at full lock backing out of the driveway I had some rubbing. You will have to determine how bad it is but I wouldn't be too worried if it's light at the very extremes. I used the thickest spring pads up front on mine, that's an option for adding a few extra mm of room.

Can check some of the racing threads as well, I do not think there have been any wheel bite issues.

 

Also, some popping now when driving slow and turning the wheel.

Any ideas what that sound could be? It's not too bad yet, but I want it gone soon.

 

Am I suppose to cut the bump stops on the KYB for xfire if I have Eibiach Springs?

Also read something about using the stock rubber bushing between shock and the under carriage instead of the KYB. Use the included KYB bushing on the top (engine bay).
Does this sound right?

Feels like I'm hitting something turning at higher speeds?


1" out of the middle? If so I'll put together a definitive DIY for KYB/Eibach install.
There is one for KONI but no KYB.