anybody make a successful sway bar end link yet? What length did you go? I'm lowered on kw's and will be adding new sways in a few weeks. Would like to add them now. Thanks for info

 

Ground Control made some for my car...id imagine they will offer them to the public at some point.

 

won't sell separate ;(. I asked....

 

Look up MikeRs threads and see if he included any specifics.

He is only one I know to make DIY adjustable sway links and I have been running them for years with no issue, except I need some new bushings, there is a noise I don't like...

 

I made my own set about a year ago. I have the H&R Cup Kit suspension, which is really low and the sway bars were under constant load which made the ride pretty harsh.

I used 4" steel bars, a bar end, and a Heim (all from Speedway Motors). I also had to get some various spacers and sleeves to make the existing bolts fit without any play.

I would recommend getting a steel heim as the threaded part of my aluminum ones bent a bit so it can no longer be adjusted.

 

Do you happen to have the part numbers for these? I used speedway parts to build my adjustable camber arms and since I am lowering my car soon I would love to have adjustable sway bar links also.

 

How does it feel moving from plastic to metal? Any difference? That's what I hate about the stock ones, material, but figured there was probably a reason.

 

Things bend before they break, I'd get them off that car ASAP.

 

They won't sell separate That is very distressing news! This is the one thing I've been waiting for all this time. I'm not ready for the whole G.C. kit just yet.

 

I can't say that I really feel a difference because of the material. It was just necessary to switch to shorter links because of the pre-load on the sway bar when the car is lowered that much. The ride with the H&R kit is pretty harsh as it is and these improved it quite a lot.

Overall, they've been working great for me. They've survived 2 weekends at Road America (about 8 hours on-track) plus 2 years of daily driving on pothole ridden roads with no problems. I take my rear wheels off every few months to lube the camber arms (bushings start to creak every few months) and there's no cracking or damage to either the camber arms or sway bar links. When I say they're bent, I mean it's just enough that it doesn't rotate freely in the sleeve. It could be that the threads are just seized - I'm not sure. There is no visible bend to it though.

Here's my shopping list if anyone is interested:
91008001-STR FORGED STEEL 4-BAR END RH
91034258-4 SWDGED STL SLEEVES
1170810L 5/8"LH-1/2ALU HEIM X-SERIES
1750446 JAM NUT 5/8" LH RAW
1750246 JAM NUT 5/8" RH RAW

Sub Total $69.90

I mentioned in the above post that I had to get some miscellaneous fittings to get everything to work. For the top end (heim joint), I twisted the existing bolt out of the old link, sanded it by hand just enough to get the excess rubber off and it slid right into the heim. I added a 1/2" ID spacer and hooks up perfectly to the sway bar.
For the bottom end, you might have to get creative. I found some short pieces of steel pipe that had the correct ID and OD that I could slip it into the bar end and use the existing bolt that goes through the control arm. Someone in another post mentioned that they just drilled out larger holes in the control arm and used a larger bolt and nut.

Hope that helps someone! I also uploaded my photos from the track this May. They're in my gallery if anyone wants to see what the drop looks like on the H&R kit looks like.

 

I already have adjustable sway links and camber bars, if I buy the whole kit, I may have some stuff coming available....

 

That would be great! I have K-macs for camber, but please consider your adjustable sway links sold if and when you're ready. Just P.M. me w/ your asking price.

 

The stock sway bars affected ride quality?, How? I realise the car is lowered. They can (should) only be under load while cornering, in a straight line they are not loaded at all, a bent or shorter link would be the only way to pre-load one side more than the other. As a spring they are very, very, very weak compared to the coils that I imagine the Cup Kit, or even the OE spring rate.

 

Good input guys, thanks for the info. Had some of the left over parts already, so will order the rest and get to it....

 

did we ever get a final parts list? the various parts and spacers, sanding bolts down etc has got me pumping the brakes on this DIY.

 

Man I want to get my sway bars to the correct height. I still have metal clanging in turns, even the my ground control, bent camber arms. I think that adjusting this " unsprung weight" will improve the ride quality and address the clanging as well.

If someone could pm me with a plug and play solution or parts list. I love a good DIY, but I hate guessing which parts I need to try.

 

Anyone try these??

Hellwig Adjustable End Links - Best Price on Hellwig Adjustable Drop Links for Trucks & SUVs

Looks like an affordable option. Love to know if someone has been able to use the conversion kit offered.

Here is another set that don't appear to plug and play, but I am curious is there is an easy way to make these work...
http://www.andysautosport.com/produc...20628%20B.html

 

It's nearly impossible for a sway bar to effect ride quality, all it does is resist roll. If you had a bar that was 200% + of the OE diameter you might feel something when one side of the car goes over a speed bump or such. Tire pressure, and construction, has a much greater effect on ride quality.

 

Since I don't have a chalkboard handy, here it is in a nutshell:

If the swaybars are loaded, it provides a direct, SOLID connection between the sub frame and the chassis. If they are connected, as OEM, with no pre-load, they will only provide resistance when under compression, either side or one side at a time.

Any one else like to chime in here?

 

My sway bar links are flexed to the max. There may as well be no busing in my rear links.