I definitely did not do that. In fact I never gave the sensor light one thought, it just plain escaped me that I might have trouble.

 

In all reality we cannot deduce same ID's nor can we deduce the system is working correctly from just swapping a set of wheels/tires and not get a light.

 

I have given up trying to understand how they work. My light is off so why worry.
Naturally a light will now come on in the next few months.
Edit
Actually the light came on in June 2020.

 

Bump! to da top

 

This should be a sticky

 

I think that the title of this thread is misleading... it went around in circles & basically ended with “it is what it is.”

When I take my 2005 to Discount Tire, what Schrader TPMS sensor can they install that will actually work? They installed some a year ago on my rear tires that never worked. I called my local Chrysler dealer and they said that they would try to program them, but, it would cost $100 an hour to “try”...

 

The first post has the answer, it is in blue letters and says it all. Use the Schrader 33700 sensor and get them fitted and set at a tire outlet able to clone them.
ZH SRT (Clint) worked for Chrysler and is the one with inside knowledge, listen to him.
Read post #54 and all will be revealed.
Search 33500 and you will find people who have had these fitted and are working. The actual part to use is #33700 it has the aluminum stem, 33500 has the rubber stem.
ReliableRon is one person I can think of.

 

This thread is to inform the car owner how TPMS works so you don't go to a Discount Tire and they misinform owners on what to buy or how to re-sync them. Sadly too often we have to teach THEM how they work on our cars. I have lost count of the number of times some "tire shop tech" gave me incorrect info. Some even say these will reset themselves after driving awhile. Sad for the unsuspecting owner who then drives off with that advice. 180 is your parts thread guy. Clint who wrote the above in blue is the go to technical guy on the subject.

To me the simplest way to replace TPMS is to do it while the tires are already off for other reasons. I replaced mine at the tire shop with the OEM style that Schrader makes then I drove to the dealer who charges me 1/4 hour to sync them. I already had the plan and knew the dealer charges before going to the tire shop.

 

Ask if they have a reader to figure out what frequency they are. Our cars use both and by VIN my car said one frequency but in reality was the other.

 

I wasn’t trying to be critical of this post and I apologize if it came across that way. I already replaced two tires using the TPMS replacements that DT suggested & they didn’t work. I appreciate you confirming what the true answer is. I’ll be happy to work with them with this information.

 

.


Old school works BEST and is only about a dollar or so every three to four years. Its called a Tire Pressure Gauge, SURPRISE! Then when your used to doing it the old fashioned way (AND/OR) are changing tires, use the old fashioned rubber valve stems (I suggest the shortest ones you can find so they don't get chopped off on curb rubs), those are pretty inexpensive as well. Finally, bypass that POS of a TPMS ASAP and be DONE WITH IT... Saves a lot o headaches and MONEY...


.

 

Okay, so, I had my front tires replaced yesterday (it’s running great). I had the technician replace all of the TPMS sensors and install Schrader 33700. It took a few tries to get him to understand, but, he finally agreed to do it. I explained that he had to know the frequency from one of the front tire sensors. He installed them, used his tool and told me that they all were working at the 433 frequency (he looked up the VIN instead). He gave me the standard, “you have to drive it for it to sync to the TPMS.” I drove it 8 to 12 miles and the light is still on. At what point do I declare it a failure and take the car back to check the frequency, etc.,? Note that he did give me the old sensors, I’m not sure why. 🤷‍♂️😄 I will manually verify that the tire pressures are correct before I take it back. Thanks!

 

Chances are the 433 frequency is correct for your car and the sensors are fine. (Note: There is some merit in using wheel sensors that are dual frequency to avoid any mis-match when replacing sensors.) But without a DRB3 scanner tool (Chrysler dealer) or the emulator software, being able to sync the wheel sensors to the TPMS module (what some folks refer to as the "relearn process") is practically impossible. The only other way is to use wheel sensors that can be cloned to the OEM originals and then have them installed. That way the TPMS module thinks it sees the same wheel sensor and the warning light will go out. Another option is find a tire shop that has a scanner tool that will execute the "relearn process". I have only heard of Snap-On having a compatible scanner tool, but I'm not aware of anyone that has achieved success with a shop that used the Snap-On tool. Going to the Chrysler dealer may be your best option to get the new wheel sensors synced to the TPMS Module.

About a year back, I replaced the PS sensors on my 2007 Coupe with VDO REDI-Sensors. Discount Tire performed the work. They were able to scan the wheel sensors to tell which ones were bad and triggered the warning light. But Discount Tire was unable to go thru the TPMS "relearn process" with the scanner tool they used. (Note: They actually didn't charge me anything for the new REDI-Sensor they provided (I provided the other one) and the install because they couldn't complete the "relearn process".) So I bought the DRB3 Emulator software et al and performed the "relearn process" myself. I've got the VDO REDI-Sensors for the DS whenever I need to replace them. I've also used the DRB3 Emulator software to perform the "relearn process" on another XFire Owner's car after he had all the wheel sensors replaced. Takes only about 20-30 minutes

There is another thread that discusses the DRB3 Emulator software and how it is used, along with wheel scanner tools that are compatible.

 

You can declare this tire shop both ignorant of Crossfire and unable to follow your instructions.

Only a DRBIII (or equivalent) can place the car computer into learn mode.

 

If this were my car I would take all of the old sensors to him and have him read them. He may need a huge speaker magnet to trigger them. Once they do that you will know for sure if what was put on is the correct freq. Now that you know the freq. and if the correct parts were put on you can have any dealer with the DRBIII or emulator sync the new sensors. Now here is the caveat, I know nothing about the part number you posted. I used 20028 on my car. (Now replace with the 20096) See https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post830633 Post about my TPMS with DRBIII

This page was posted for our cars... TPMS spec page And this info I just see today... updated Schrader part number 20096

I CANNOT FIND A 37000 ON THE SCHRADER WEB PAGE

 

This is very simple, I've done it twice and it works like a charm.

What ever sensor you have in there in inconsequential as long correct for the car regarding its specifications, the brand does not matter.

After any new sensors are installed (Cloned ID or not) the system must be reprogrammed using a DRBIII tool which usually means a Chrysler dealership.
That’s it, there is simply no way around that.

No matter what you else, the Mechanic, the shop, the manager, the guy who changed the tire, anybody, thinks it just doesn’t matter.
That includes any number of unfounded theories in this very thread. Everybody thinks, and tries to find, an alternate procedure, and there simply is none.

 

The number is 33700 for the aluminum stem or 33500 for the rubber stem.

 

Right, but @Brian P said he put on 37000 so I guess at this point we can't say he has the correct parts on the car.

 

I’ll double check with DT. I did say Schrader 37000 TPMS sensors (based on a separate thread) and they knew the ones that I meant. They used their tools and said that they were working, but, I didn’t confirm that they managed to put the computer into learn mode. I’m about ready to order my own tool and be done. I called multiple Chrysler dealers last year and the best that I could get was that they’d charge me $100 to try... 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️

 

Your own DRBIII is about $2000 used and you have to make sure all the proper updates have been done before you buy it so it can talk to the car. There are zero OBDII devices that can set the car into relearn mode. Maybe the Snap-On but not verified. My dealer charged 1/4 hour and it looks like your dealer is charging 3/4 hour. It would be a rarity if DT had a way to get the Crossfire into learn mode.

Some have tried their own WIN7 software routes but there are a ton of "I can't get it to load, install, talk to the car" posts about that.