So Chrysler got around to looking at it (took 4 days).
$300 for diagnosis although they quoted me $50 on the phone.
They say they have to replace Skreem ($300) and powertrain modules ($2900).
This may not fix the problem.

Why would both modules go out at the same moment?
I am considering ditching the car as a total loss I just don't have the money to dump into it.

 

This sucks for sure. PCM failures are pretty infrequent. As you noted in a previous post, the Skreem may seem to be the culprit -- or it still could be the RCM has issues if it wasn't resoldered correctly. It's hard to know what to do in these circumstances given the costs of doing a repair which may or many not even be the fix. Best of luck. I think I'd stick with trying all the simple low / no cost things again and see what happens first.

 

Yea reading the number of different scenarios that cause mystery no start issues I can see that Daimler included a little casino under the hood.
Since I already tried two RCMs (soldiered original) and the CPS, I am crossing my fingers and going to go with the Skreem replacement.
If that doesn't get it started I have to eat the whole thing, the car isn't worth the powertrain gamble.

I wonder if the Powertrain Control Module Flash TSB #18-030-04 would be of any use.
I understand after trying to start it 30 times the skreem implodes... probably reprograms everything in reach on the way out.
Do they make antivirus software for cars?

 

To Tighed1:

Outstanding work and thank you! I bought my car about 2 1/2 weeks ago and it quit on me on the way home today, exact same symptoms, mysteriously restarted after about 10 minutes of checking fuses, etc. Even though I was a mechanic for over 20 years, intermittent problems like this can be terrible to diagnose, so I was thrilled when I found this page, and then removed mine and found the cracked solder joints. About 20 minutes in and out and the job is done, without spending the $170 (I think) that the local parts house wanted. Again, thanks!

Kevin
2005 Limited Roadster

 

New development. Dealer says Skreem and powertrain control module must be replaced together $3200.
Is this correct? I have read reports of replacing Skreem alone solving MSN.

From SLKworld:

 

I ordered a spare new RCM from Rock Auto to keep in the trunk as a standby unit.

Contacted tighed1 with these pics and asked if it looked OK. He said it was hard to tell from pictures and should be re-soldered just in case.

Here are the pictures of the spare as received.

IMG_6304sm.jpg
IMG_6305c.jpg
IMG_6309c.jpg


It really didn't look too bad, but I went ahead and re-soldered all joints. You electronics guys can get a chuckle out of these pics... ( the minor scratches are from cleaning off the excess rosin a little too aggressively)
IMG_6443sm.jpg
IMG_6444c.jpg

After the re-solder, I wanted to test it to make sure it worked. So I removed the OEM and tested. It worked just fine.

While removed, I decided to check it out as well. While not as bad as the OP, it was starting to show some separation around big 6 problem pins. The rest of the board actually looked pretty good.

IMG_6446sm.jpg

IMG_6447c.jpg


IMG_6449c.jpg

So I will keep the spare installed, and re-solder the factory one for my extra.

Re-solder of just the main six pins on the factory unit. I left the rest as is, as they looked good IMO.
IMG_6459c.jpg
Yeh, I know, I'm none too stingy with the solder...

 

In this case, stingy is not necessarily better .... ( as long as they don't touch )
We are looking for good mechanical as well as electrical connection here.

 

Update on my MNS it turned out replacing the Skreem fixed it, dealer dinged my retirement for $1000 but at least now I can drive the car off the pier. I love the driving the car it is fun as hell, I considered getting an aftermarket warranty to keep it around.

 

After spending $1,000 make sure you drive the car off the right end of the pier.

 

Tighed1 are you still doing repairs on these? Tried to send you a pm but your box was full. Please message me

Thanks

 

E Mail him at; tighed1 @ Hotmail.com

 

Thanks Dave.

Yup. Still doing these.

Email received.

 

I recently (2 months ago) changed my battery. Since then at times - At idle the dash/radio lights will flicker/flutter and twice the car has shut off at idle.

Took the car to an auto electric place - turned on/off all electric goodies while idling, while they used the multi meter - Diagnosis - no battery/alternator issues.

I suspect it may be the voltage regulator..Could it be the RCM? Any ideas?

 

Did they remove and check the battery connectors? Did you clean them when you replaced the battery? Pull each one off and wire brush the insides good.

 

Plus 1.....

 

Also check where the negative cable connects to the body.

 

Ok so i think this is probably my problem. I'll find out this weekend. This was great!

Any chance whatsoever this will magically fix my non working rear spoiler and convertible top (both not moving)? I really just need to get the thing rolling so i can get it to someone who can diagnose that, i just wondered if maybe.......???

 

Not a chance. The RCM ( K40 ) is in no way related to any convertible top or spoiler issues.

 

I didnt figure it would be so easy but I could hope

 

I read tighed1's post and it appears that I have a RCM problem. I replaced the battery and my car still will not crank. All of the electronic works. Does anyone know if tighed1 is still repairing these boards? I have a 2005 base model crossfire.

I think I can do this, but do not feel comfortable doing it. I an not sure what type of solder or soldering iron to use. Also, other than visually checking the solder joints, how can I tell which ones are bad? Should all the joints be resoldered while I have the board out?

Any help would be appreciated.

jrd1074