Ok so, I got my new KMC GTX wheels. The problems all started with the first mounting of the wheels. The bolts that ordered were to long for the rear, due to deeper bolt holes. So because they were to long, the bolts acctually hit the parking brake springs and mechanisms in the inside of the hub. So when I went to back out of the bay. Bam, the bolts got hung in the **** inside the hub. So back onto the lift it went. Ordered new bolts, still didnt work. Ordered new bolts a third time. There we go, finally. But since the long bolts had already been used, the damage was done. The springs that work the parking brake were all F***ed up. So luckly my neighbor, an true ASE tech unlike the tire place, pulled off the wheels, brakes, hubs, etc. I ordered new springs and replaced them, along with bending a few pieces back that got bent. So, for any of you out there who are putting new wheels on, BE WARE!!! If your car doesn't make it 2 feet out of the garage before locking down and not going anywhere, you may want to put it back on the lift, order new bolts, and have internals inspected for damages. Oh what a day. So now I am getting ready to order eibachs prowheel spaces. Probably the 30mm ones. I'll post pics soon.

 

Just a suggestion for you (in lieu of your other post about breaking the interior).
Check things out before you install them!!! - at least use the search function on this forum, there are very few problems which have not been touched upon in this forum.
Aftermarket wheels and bolts being too long has been discussed many times (you could have just cut/grund them down).
Do you need spacers on your new wheels?

 

Well if you knew anything about grinding wheel bolts down, you would know that griding and cutting them causes them to heat up to high temperatures, which can cause the metal to become weak. And second, I figured that the KMC wheel manufacture would have sent the correct bolts the first time, of which they did not. I don't need wheel spacers as they finally sent the correct length bolts. However I do plan on installing wheel spacers to close the gap between the wheel and wheel well. Third, if chryslers interior body panels wern't so cheap and low budget, that breakage, wouldn't have been a problem. I know it's cheap because I also owned a Mercedes c280 of which I had no problems with quality. On the Crossfire the panels themselfs didn't break acctually, just the cheap plastic snaps that hold them in place. Those little black push things. So I assume I can order some more from the dealership. I do like the Crossfire, however, there are some cheap plastic parts used. I guess it follows the saying, you get what you pay for. Im not trying to bash you but I do know quite a bit about cars as I have done many many many car audio installs. And I have worked on cars my whole life. I guess I will admit I am at fault for letting some dumb *** install my wheels at the wheel place. I had a bad experience with them. Now all is fine other than the interior.

 

Regarding cutting metal - heard of coolant?
Heating metals does not automatically make them weak.
Wheel spacers are not for the bolts - they are for spacing the wheel, you did the correct amount of research and your wheels have adequate offset etc?
Have you turned at full lock going forwards AND backwards?
Regarding the plastic snaps (or xmas trees/plastic rivets as they are often called), a lot of the time if you remove them incorrectly you will break them. Often these items are designed for a one off useage - you remove the panel, and you have to replace the fastener. This philosophy is often used in 'safety' areas such as steering mechanisms etc.
So, I don't feel 'bashed', I'm just trying to impart some wisdom onto young shoulders and help somebody out by saving them time and money etc.

 

But it is pretty hard to use coolant if you use a grinder. If you saw them off, just go slow and use coolant.

And make sure you don't cut too much off! Bolt stretchers are VERY expensive!

 

All depends on the grinder you use Maxcichon.

 

Listen to Spensley!!! He knows what he is talking about. Everything he is saying is correct. I just had aftermarket wheels put on, and you really have to make sure all your hardware, measurements, etc. are correct for this car. As far as the spacers, i really wouldnt go with them. When you use a spacer the wheel is not really sitting on hub like it should. after spacers the weight is all put on the bolts you use to fasten the wheel on.


btw, Nice car. like the black out look

 

Eibach makes a proset for about 300-400 bucks from 5mm-30mm. The hubcentric wheel spacers are the ones that are ok, other ones that slide over the hub are ones that cause problems. It doesn't matter what car you have, all weight is focused on the bolts or studs. Thats why on large power trucks or even tractor trailers they have twice as many and twice as large stud and or bolts. As long as the spacers are made of a high quality metal and are true, there should be no problems. As long as your bolts are tightend to the correct specs then they shouldn't be a concern, however I would recommend tighting the bolts at least every few weeks for saftey reasons. I doubt Eibach would still be in business had they been selling inferior product. Im moving up in tire size from a 255/35/20 to a 275/35/20 in the rear so I want to move the wheels out a hair. Maybe 5-10mm. As far as cutting bolts, I don't believe i've ever seen any professional cut wheels studs or bolts.

Oh btw, Check out my pics of my friends new 08 GT3 RS, yes the 08! It makes me sick. Such a beautiful car.

 

I had to cut about 5mm off my new rear bolts, I done it the old fashion way I used a hack saw. No heat problems there . I know I've posted at least 3 to 4 times that the OEM bolts on the rear go into the hub 16mm for people that have asked.