A week ago, I finally picked up the car from the repair shop. They replaced the front bearings, rubber bushings, and rear stabilizer bar links.
I also asked the mechanic to adjust the handbrake because it was holding too weakly.
These repairs cost me $225.
That same day I drove to a vehicle inspection station where the incorrect wheel alignment settings were corrected.
I wonder why the wheel alignment was incorrect, as it was done in the summer after replacing the lower control arms and ball joints...
Perhaps the measuring instruments at that workshop were not calibrated.
And now the most important thing: currently, on a flat, level road, it doesn't pull me to the right!

That is, it doesn't pull when braking, but it does pull slightly to the right when I let go of the steering wheel while driving, but not always.
Before replacing the front wheel bearings, my colleague suggested there was no point in replacing them, as Mercedes-Benz bearings have a built-in play adjuster.
However, I decided that after 21 years, it was better to replace them.
By the way, I finally deciphered what the term "setting the geometry in the car" means:
🔧 Wheel Alignment – What Does It Cover?
A full wheel alignment includes:
- Toe-in – the difference in distance between the front and rear edges of the wheels on the same axle.
- Camber angle.
- Caster angle.
- Ackerman angle.
- Riding centerline/rear axle offset.
Ultimately, only the first item on this list was set in my Crossfire.
As I understand it, the remaining items on the list are not performed on Crossfires.