Reference this thread for SL55 vs SRT Y-Pipe (air distributor) comparisons:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/showthread.php?p=169393#post169393


I just installed it tonight. Read below for the details.

First impressions (hope to get track time next week, and possible dyno with and without this weekend):

• Low end torque DEFINITELY feels like it increased! From a stop, the throttle seems like it is a good bit more responsive and feels like it lays down the power a little quicker. I did a 45-100mph run and noticed quite a difference in sound and feel. First gear punch will easily roast the tires with traction off, same from 2nd with high enough RPM's. ALL OF THIS WITHOUT the sprint booster installed! (had it off for dealer work). Hopefully I can dyno it to verify this is actual gains and not just excitement. I'm pretty sure there is tangible benefit though, especially for the low cost.
• Supercharger much more audible. You don't just hear the 'whine' now, but you actually hear the 'chirp' that they make...not obnoxious, but with the radio off, you definitely hear it. Especially on high RPM runs, and when letting off the gas from a high RPM without the car shifting to the higher gear (letting the car engine-brake)...but even at idle it is audible. The cars intake sound is also more aggressive.
• Best of all - it looks factory, and I didn't have to cut or modify anything that came on the car, so I can put it back to stock if I need to take the car in for warranty work. I am doing this research for a friend of mine who wants to retain the stock look of the engine cover and air boxes but still help the breathing of the car. I plan to add different intake tubes and what not later, and will update it as I progress.

Here's a few pics - install info below:

1. Here's how it went. Uninstall the stock inlet tubes, PCV(?) breather hose from the drivers inlet tube, and then uninstall the stock Y-Pipe.
   If you haven't installed K&N filters yet, you will have non re-usable clamps on the airboxes. Remove these with a flathead screwdriver...use the tip to 'lift' the clamped end and 'open' it. You'll see what I mean. Your couplers will come with clamps.
2. After the clamps are removed, you'll need to remove the PCV(?) breather hose off of the drivers inlet tube. This just slides out. Now, pull the inlet tubes off of the car. They are flexible, so don't worry about using some force. However, The stock rubber inlet tubes are 'sealed' to the factory Y-Pipe....so it may take some effort. I later used a razor blade to clean the residual sealant off of the inside of the rubber tubes.
3. Now that the inlet tubes are off, pull off the factory Y-Pipe. The Y Pipe has a clip on top, and a clip on the bottom. Look at your new SL55 Y-Pipe to see how it works. You lift the end of the top clip closest to the nose of the car, pull the Y-Pipe towards the firewall,and it pulls right off of the throttle body. You should now have the stock Y Pipe and stock inlet tubes off the car, and the PCV Breather hose detached.
4. I then used dawn soap for lube, and installed the factory rubber inlet tubes onto the SL55 Y Pipe. They are a very tight fit, but it went on and sealed just like they should.
5. You now have the stock inlet tubes installed on the SL55 Y Pipe. At this point, I installed the Y-Pipe and tubes to see how it worked. The SL55 Y-Pipe is not as wide as the Stock one, so the inlet tubes didn't reach the air boxes to seal it all up. So, I purchased 2ea. 2"x2" 'Flexible Couplings' made by American Value. I bought them at Lowe's for less than $5/ea. in the plumbing section near all of the black rubber couplings.
   When looking at the coupler, there is a 'ridge' on the far outsides, one on each end, to allow the clamp to stay on the coupler. On one end of the coupler, I cut JUST this ridge off...making the 1/2" on the end of the coupler smaller than the rest of it. This 'thinner' end slides into the stock inlet tubes perfectly. forming a good seal. The other end slides over the stock airbox outlets perfectly (you may need soap to help them slide). Install a clamp on the airboxes, and you're good to go other than the PCV(?) breather hose.
6. For the breather hose, I removed the 'coupler' that is on the end of the hose. I then inserted a 2 1/2" x 1/2" PVC Coupler ($.46 @ lowes) between the stock hose and the stock inlet tube fitting. The piece I bought is hard PVC, gray, and threaded. It should stay in just fine...but I plan to replace it later with flexible hose like the factory stuff.

Now you're set!

I also plan to install a clamp on the Y-Pipe connections just for insurance, but I need to go buy some that are large enough. I believe they will be 3" or 4", I will need to check.

The hardest part was getting the coupler to slide into the stock inlet tube WHILE they were both installed. I was trying to force the coupler inside of the inlet tube, and kept pushing the inlet tube off of the Y-Pipe. I believe if I would've clamped the stock inlet tubes onto the Y-Pipe, this wouldn't have been as difficult.

Also, one thing you will notice when installing the Y-Pipe: The stock Y-Pipe points almost perfectly horizontal. The SL55 one points up at about a 20-30* angle, which puts the inlet tubes higher than the air box openings. If you 'rotate' or 'clock' the inlet tubes while they are on the Y-Pipe, you can get them lined up perfectly with the Airboxes because of the way they are shaped from the factory. You have to do this to get a good seal between everything. Make sure the couplers are not touching the metal areas up top as these get quite warm.

Words of caution:

• Make sure you rotate the inlet tubes to line up with the air box openings.
• Watch out for the 'heat shrouds' or they will cut you.
• Let the engine cool down prior to working on it.
• Clamp the Y-Pipe/Inlet tube joints AND the airbox/inlet tube joints!
• Make sure to clean the sealant off of the inside of the inlet tubes by scraping or peeling it off. Make sure all of the residue is OUT of the tubes before installing to prevent them from getting in the Throttle Body
• Make sure to extend and re-connect the PCV hose!
• Make sure the shape of the couplers are 'round' when they are installed into the stock inlet tubes. Due to have to distort the shape to install them, they have a tendency to 'fold' if you don't check them, and flatten them all out.
• Double check the seal all around between the Y-Pipe and the Inlet Tubes.
• Listen and check for leaks prior to driving.
• Drive a short distance - let the car sit for a minute to 'heat soak' the intercooler boxes on top. Check to make sure the couplers are not melting against the sides of the aluminum plenums.

This sounds a LOT harder than it was.

Parts Needed:

1. 1ea. SL55 y-pipe MB Part # 1130940103 - $63.75 @ oempartsdirect.com (Try a discount code 8253 for a little savings if it still works). I bought mine used on mbworld.org for $45
2. 2ea. 2" x 2" Flexible Coupler made by American Valve.com- $4.37/ea. @ lowes
3. Piece of tubing to extend the PCV Valve breather line - haven't verified size of this as I used a hard piece of PVC temporarily. Will update.
4. Clamps for Y-Pipe/Inlet Hose connection.

Tools used:

• Single Edge Razor Blade
• Flat-Head ScrewDriver
• Dish Soap for lubrication

Time to install now that I know how everything works - <30mins

Hope this helps!

SQ