Originally Posted by MMZ_TimeLord
Most likely there is a solid state 'relay' in the module. i.e. - Transistor switched power source. There may be a real relay too for all I know. What you could do to protect the module is use the existing feed to the OEM pump to switch a relay for the fans and the pump and run your own hot circuit. That would probably be my first choice as it would allow you to fuse the circuit as you see fit and keep the OEM module from over amping.
Cheers!
I've not actually looked for a pump relay yet, I was just going off what the SRT service manual say's. My fans are hooked up to a remote control relay controlled by a key fob and the relay is rated at 15 amps. I used a 15 amp fuse for the relay, the fans pull around 12 amps. I had turned them on & off countless times with the car not running (12.4 volts), but when I started the car and turned them on for the first time it blew the 15 amp fuse. It took me a while to figure that one out, with the car running you have 14.4 volts and the basic rule volts goes up amps go down. I finally figured out the it was either the inductive reactance of the relay coil or a resistor across the coil itself when adding a higher voltage caused more in-rush current when starting the fans. I was probably on the border line of blowing the 15 amp fuse at 12.4 volts. I could turn the fans on then start the car and the 15 amp fuse would hold fine. What you are saying is what I was intending to do, tap off the output of my remote relay and run it to the pump relay coil so that I wouldn't be pulling more amps on my fan relay & using the existing pump curcuit, that is if there is an actual pump relay somewhere.