The original thread on how to do this is here. That was written based on the conversion of my set to purple for my SRT6.

This new write up is on changing the illuminated sill plate color also, but to green for MAYAman. Some new and good things to note before I proceed.

1. When I ordered the 1inch wide EL tape from www.beingseen.com the person taking my order recognized the length and the connections I asked for and said "Is this a Crossfire conversion kit?" I was stunned! I said 'yes' and he promptly filled my order.

2. When I received the order (late by no fault of the shipper) I was pleasantly suprised to find that the connections on the end were MUCH better than the first set I was shipped and didn't require me to cut the plastic to make room for the connections.

3. I received the sill plates from Wyckoff Chrysler, Inc. for $357.63 shipped. The sill plates were slightly different in that there was hot glue securing the wire connections through the plastic. This took a bit of work to remove, but it came out and didn't damage the aluminum outer plate or the pastic housing.

And before i go any further...

NOTE: Crossfires don't come from the factory with Illuminated Sill Plates. These are an accessory available normally through your Chrysler dealer for a cost of around $350. I obtained my original set through a user on this board who decided not to install theirs. I obtained the set for this project from Wyckoff Chrysler, Inc.

The original plates come as a light blue color when lit. (Think of the old Indiglo watches.)

From www.beingseen.com I ordered 5 feet of 1" EL tape and asked for Green. Green is not a color they have in just the EL tape so, as with my previous purple, they had white EL tape and a green film to put over it. This will work for a variety of colors or even alternating letter/word colors, etc. As stated above after telling beingseen that I would be cutting the 5 feet of EL tape in half and shorten each piece slightly, they asked if I was ordering a "Crossfire Conversion Kit" and I said yes.

In this "Kit", they put on the connections, include two inverters and leave the tape in a single piece. I would suggest you ask them to send you one inverter as the second one is only good for experimentation or (if you can add the connections) using the leftover tape for something else.

As you can see from the pictures, both "kits" arrived in good shape.

The general steps to the tutorial haven't really changed much.

1. Carefully pry up one corner (nearest the outside edge) and then gradually slice away at the adhesive strip holding the aluminum along the long edge.

2. Slice both short edges most of the way toward the "back" edge near the middle of the plate.

3. You may have to push the hot glue through the hole in order to pry the aluminum plate up on that side.

4. Tilting the plate off of the 'front' edge (long edge at bottom of text) use a longer knife (steak or pearing knife or a longer pocket knife) to slice away at the adhesive strip along the 'back' edge (long edge at the top of the text).

5. Once the plate is clear of the plastic sill base, clip the wires about 1/2" from the original EL tape.

6. Carefully and SLOWLY pry away the original EL tape from the two clear adhesive strips. The strips should remain on the clear lenses on the aluminum plate. If some of the clear adhesive comes up and stretches, slow down and afterward, trim off the stretched section as it will ball up.

7. Cut the new EL tape the exact same length as the original EL tape.

8. Cut the colored film the same width as the lit part of the original EL tape (about 7/8 of an inch). This should be wide enough to cover half of the clear adhesive strips when centered along the two strips. Depending upon the length of colored film you are supplied, you may have to cover the area in sections. Just make sure to cover the clear lenses completely. I don't know if it would make a difference but I didn't want to see white light bleeding out of the letters.

9. Place the new EL tape in the same position as the original. This should have the wires and connections right at the factory hole through the plastic.

10. Thread the new wires through the hole and re-assemble the aluminum plate/lens/EL Tape assembly to the plastic base. Once everything is lined up, press the assembly and base together firmly along both long edges until it's completely flat with the base.

11. Repeat for the second sill.

12. Cut the new wires about 3 inches from their connectors.

13. Strip a 1/4 inch from the ends and then strip 1/4 inch from the ends of one of the factory connector wires you cut off the original EL tape.

14. Twist the wires together and wrap with electrical tape or heat shrink tubnig. (I soldered mine for better conduction and reliablity.)

15. Repeat steps 12 through 14 for the second sill plate.

16. Cut off the Yellow factory inverter 1/4 inch from it's factory connector.

17. With the new inverter, connect the wires from the factory harness as follows. Red (from factory harness) to Red (from new inverter). Brown (from factory harness) to Black (from new inverter). Two Blacks (from factory harness) to Two Whites (from new inverter). The last connection is for AC current, so it doesn't matter which black goes to which white.

18. Cover joints with Electrical tape or shrink wrap. (Again, I soldered my connections.)

19. Test.

20. Ship to MAYAman... or install if it's yours.

Cheers!