Originally Posted by BrianBrave
Great test Steve! - The only variable left to discover is how the pump reacts (and you have the LED and a IC coolant gauge to observe) - when the IC coolant is warm/hot or at some pre-set temperature. You might need to take it out and run that SRT hard.
I thought when my car was sitting on the dyno between runs (hot hot hot) and they left key in the "ON" position - I squeezed one of the IC hoses and felt the coolant flowing. With your test - the engine running at high rev's and cold IAT's - the relay may have signaled the IC Pump on in anticipation of what's to come...
Thanks for the heads up PM - I am pulling the front bumper today to install the Johnson pump and do a slightly different mod to the HE. - But the phone just rang and a part I ordered for my motorcycle is in - so a quick detour before I start.
I finished confirming that the connector hot wire at the pump is one side of fuse #13 & the ground at the connector is grounded at all times. So whipping up a seperate circuit is a peice of cake. Using a small power relay you would just pull #13 fuse - run a wire from the side that is hot when the pump should be running to terminal #87a of the relay. The other side of where the fuse was,(goes to pump connector) you would connect an in line fuse holder and run it to terminal #30. Then for the aux. power, use one of the hot studs at the fire wall end of the fuse box and run a perferably fused wire to terminal #87. Then for the coil of the relay, ground terminal #85 and use a 12 volt source (toggle switch or ???) to terminal #86 to change from OEM circuit to AUX. circuit. All of this can easily be hidden under the top of the fuse panel. My relay will be operated by the remote control for the HE fans and I will have a small green LED inside the car that will be connected to terminal #30 that will tell me the pump is running. With having the the other small blue LED connected to the remote control fan relay, I'll even be able to tell witch circuit the pump is running off of
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