I've removed mine completly, and had an upolster shop make a nice leather strap to use for a handle, but I had to machine two alluminum anchor mounts to attach the straps the the door, looks slick hell. and a lot more knee room too. I 'm happier now.
Originally Posted by waldig
Well I seem to get a lot of heat for some ideas but what the hay....here is more red meat for the critics.
First the "pipe insulation on the door is 1" thick wall 1 3/8" refrigeration grade insulation that slips over the door handle without incident. If your my height the door handle gets me right at the knee cap, and on the weekends my 5 point harness does little to arrest the motion of my feet and it is durn uncomfortable to be hitting 1 G lateral loading in the turns when the knees are taking on the chin so to speak. The foam is cut to taper to the contour of the door panel for function ( thank you 240m3srt ) and can be removed without issue; slips off. Do I get points for aligning the factory imprinting so the is faces down and out of view. This piping has self attaching adhesive that glues the cut pipe edge to its self, nothing glued to car, thank you.
This is a tough audience for sure.
Anyway Mrs. Lincoln other than that, did you like the play.
I have found that every time that I remove a set of tires, it seems that I am remounting another set just a quick. Doing that 4 or 5 times a month gets a bit old, street, slicks,street,slicks....Juggling 8 tires got me to thinking.
The front wheels of the Crossfire do not have a big enough ledge to set the wheels on safely like the rear and they keep turning, big pain to get the bolts started, SO I went to a local fastener company and got a couple of 100mm bolts that you see 12mm x 1.5 mm. In the photo one has its head ground off on a bench grinder.
Just screw this in the wheel by hand, start the wheel on it and get the other bolts started, then remove the stud. Makes it easier, less frustration on the lift and a bunch better on the ground too.
The stud's hex head was ground off as cutting it with a blade would:
A. make it shorter
B. require that the raw end be dressed up to remove the jagged edge
C. wear out the blade, hardened bolt
D. take more effort and the sparks are so pretty to watch
I left a 1/32 of so lip on the first bolt to see if that would prevent the wheel from slipping off, its not necessary. I did the first bolt by hand. When I do it again, I suggest that you wrap the bolts threads in tape, DUCT FREAKING TAPE WILL WORK and chuck it in a 1/2" drill that is used to rotate the bolt head against the grinder, makes for a more round and finished appearance. After the photo was taken, I provided additional protection by coating the ground metal area with a pneumatically charged material [aerosol] applicator. OK its a damn rattle can, it works and now I have a functional tool that makes life easier, try it you will like it.