Originally Posted by LEADFOOT

A couple of things to report.

I spoke with the service manager at my local dealership. I have become rather friendly with him over the years due to all the vehicles I have purchased there. He has always been able to supply me with the TSB's via email for my dodge trucks and cars I have owned. He is checking to see if he can forward the TSB's for our SRT6's and non-SRT's. I'll post whatever he sends me.

I apologize that I missed a question in an earlier post regarding my launch techniques and overall process for achieving the 12.7 1/4 mile times. It took considerable practice and learning to get the car to this time. I started in the 13.4 range. Again my car, for now, is completely stock. I spent a considerable amount of time working with the traction control. I was interested in how the traction control reacts under different situations. What I have noticed with the traction control off if you achieve enough difference in wheel speed it will still apply the brake. So what I needed to find out is how much of a difference in actual MPH. he owners manual discussed ratios which is fine but I am not a walking/driving calculator and therefore can not do the math as I am actually launching a vehicle. So roughly a forward speed (the speed that would show up on a policemen's radar gun) which would be what the front tires are experiencing versus rear wheel speed. Hence while you will see the item below explaining how to release the brake and use the throttle. Then I was trying to determine the best rpm to stage, how much brake, how quickly to go to full throttle, how quickly to release the brake, and whether or not to pre-heat the tires with a burn out, drive around the wet area in front of the line or not. So as you can see a lot goes into improving your process not just reaction time, which is very important as well. Reaction time is improved largely with practice and a couple other trade secrets (think caffeine). So here is what I came up with:
Vehicle is in 1st gear, traction control is off (light on), throttle reset done in pit area immediately prior to lining up to race.
1) Do not wet tires but do a burnout prior to launch.
2) Stage to 2,700 rpm's
3) Foot firmly on the brake.
4) When you are completely staged and your first light appears.
5) Maintain rpm's and lightly lift on the brake. Do not allow the car to creep or you will be disqualified.
6) When green appears steadily remove your foot from the brake whilst simultaneously moving the throttle down to approx 1/3 throttle. Lifting your foot off the brake should be quick but not as fast as you can lift it. This will take practice.
7) Once the brakes have been completely released and the tachometer reaches 4,600 (approx), completely mash the throttle as fast as you can to the floor.
8) Leave the car in 1st gear it will shift for you at redline. My car shifts 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 at WOT (wide open throttle) faster than it is possible to do on a manual shift. My car literally shifts instantaneously from gear to gear. I am very impressed. I have had Power Glide transmissions on numerous cars. Lightening sticks(this is an in line manual with hand driven clutch, when you lift/squeeze the handle located on the shifter, only enough pressure is removed from the throw-out bearing to allow you to shift. The car also had the standard clutch on the floor.), shift kits for auto's, torque/stall converters and line pressure vacuum assist pumps and none of those compare to the speed at which my SRT6 shifts.

If done properly and with a lot of practice, under 13s is defiantly reproducible with these cars. Remember temp and humidity on race day is a huge factor in your performance. Once temps exceed 80 degrees and humidity is over 60% there is an appreciable loss in hp.

My car is being put on the dyno this Saturday. It is a 4 wheel dyno or sometimes referred to a Mustang dyno. With this type of dyno the unit is bolted to the drive wheels (tire removed of course) versus setting the car on the drum. It can be used to test AWD vehicles as well. I'll try to post pics but I will at least post the numbers (My digi camera is not functioning). I Will be testing stock air filters versus K&N. By the way the times I posted earlier were with stock filters.

I'll post soon! I am hoping for 295 hp which will put our cars around 360 at the flywheel. Once I swap the filters to K&N I would like to see over 300 hp.

Be back soon.

leadfoot

Always keep the rubber side down!