Here's what's going on. It's not a no start/no crank issue. The key physically doesn't turn in the lock. Not counter-clockwise for the ACC (Accessory) Position, not clockwise to Run (Engine running) or the ON (Engine starting). I did locate wiring diagrams in the manual (thanks tom2112) for some reason I was in a "stupid day" can't read (probably due out of frustration) and I do not think I'll be jumping power to the switch. From what I can decipher from the wiring diagram is this:

The window switch sends a signal to the BCM (Body Control Module). The BCM gets B+ at all times, but also gets power from the ignition switch in the On & Run positions. Without one you get nothing. The BCM has a "Window Up/Down sense circuit in which it provides power and ground to the window motors. So jumping power to the switch risks damage to the BCM is full 12V are applied if it's looking for VRef (Which is usually 3 or 5V).
So I could open the door panels and apply power & ground directly to the motor itself but I don't have leads long enough for that. So then I thought that I could remove the battery and lay it next to each door and do it that way, but in all honesty, I don't want to remove other stuff on top in rish of forgetting something.

So now I have towels over top each door and a Crossfire car cover on top as to not be an eyesore in town.

I just cut out the ignition switch/lock cylinder this morning about an hour ago. AMAZING what the right tool for the job can do. I started with a hacksaw and spent 3 hours to get a scratch in it. I went out and bought a Dremel and just cut a passageway in the the steering column for the pin in the lock cylinder to slide through without cuttin the whole cylinder assembly and 20 min later PRESTO!! she's out. I love this dremel, I'm going to cut the whole lock cylinder apart to see how it works once I get the new one, just in case I have to cannibalize something off those old one. I will post pics soon I think.


Justin