How to change your 6 spark plugs easily
I have changed the plugs to install colder ones for use with the higher boost of a pulley upgrade.
To make it easier I have included several little hints. The removal of the plugs is straight forward enough, DO IT WITH A DEAD COLD MOTOR. Plug socket and several lengths of ratchet wrench extensions are needed to get into the head area. Move your hands slow so you dont get knicked by the sharp corners and edges.
It was easier for me to get the proper sized torx bit to remove and lift the three ignition coils to facilitate access to the plugs on the head. At this point please note that the three coils have two plug wires and it is berry berry guud to sketch out the wiring layout ( map ) Mon. This way you will not get the leads swapped later when you are ready to install the wires on the new plugs. Now remove the six plugs and check the gap of the new ones to be sure they are not pinched shut in the package cause they might have been dropped!
I ALWAYS add some type of Never-seeze grease to the plug threads, especially on the aluminum heads in the C. This will ease the install and prevent any gaulling of the threads later when you go to remove these plugs. Photos included.
To make your life much easier, Id suggest that you get a length of rubber hose about 1 1/2 or 2 feet long and around 5/16 inside diameter. This is to slip the ceramic end of the spark plug into, to act as a rubber-plug starter. You install the plug with your hand and twist the rubber NOODLE to spin the plug into the head. This gets the plug started safely ( not cross threaded - not enough force to jam it, you'll know ) and is much easier/faster to spin into the head. When done, you just pull the hose off and repeat with on the other 5 plugs. when done you can now tighten the plugs to suit your needs.
For my next Great idea, I suggest that you add a small "wipe" of silicone grease ( dielectric grease ) to the inside of the spark plug boots before you slip them on the plugs. This will aid in the boot removal later without damage, gee thats nice. The boot goes on and SEATS better with the grease, you will like it. The grease also helps keep moisture from getting into the electrode area, wow a win win win.
At this point you need to check for junk under the hood, to prevent FOD issues. ( good to look that one up GOOGLE). When set; start the car up and give it a spin to be sure all is running well. TAA-DA.
ENJOY< Woody
Photo 1:Shows the Plug in the rubber hose 'helper'
Photo 2: Shows the plug wire 'end', grease , remember the rubber floor mat for paint protection on the fenders.
Photo 3: Image of my Co pilot who helps me CATalog data during road testing of ideas, seat belt on, of course.
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Oh yes, for you who read the credits at the end of the show there is one more thing. Go back and repeat the job of the other side of the engine.
Why do you ask, AAAHA! Good question.
The crossfire has 12 plugs and if you have a problem with a rough idle or miss, you KNOW WHICH SIDE THE PROBLEM IS ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yess!
With the tight quarters and a dozen plugs it would be a royal beach to trouble shoot the miss and have to go back for all the plugs, ahhh NO.
Here is the lesson: Less is MORE. Do the job in two stages , better time managment? It is sure easier to limit the population of possible problems [ plugs ], but that is me and I am OD SCHOO. { The "L" had not been invented untill after I graduated, sometime later, A.D. something I ferget }.
Now you did the work, the car runs smoothly, and you have a high level of satisfaction..........Enjoy, W
THATs ALL FOLKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Last edited by waldig; Jul 14, 2008 at 01:04 PM.