[QUOTE=onehundred80]
Originally Posted by 240M3SRT
LET recommends you dont do this and i believe it voids This posting under construction
That makes sense to me, taken apart and put together incorrectly it could lead to immediate failure of the pulley.
The clause about racing etc. voiding the warranty is also understandable.
I was looking at the photo of the pulley posted by Moparbust and could not see if there was a gap between the two parts down the bore of the pulley or if it was just chamfers. If the gap was there then it could be that the part has grown in length by separating. I am not trying to run the design down but if this part failed it could lead to tremendous damage under the hood.
The breakage of the screw when c32AMG-DTM tried to undo it using hand tools is troubling, are they poor screws, did he use too much force because they are locked in place or is it symptomatic of a larger problem? The larger problem could be that the screws are under sheer force in use, this would not be good as screws are at their strongest under tensile loads. If some or all of these screws are constantly taking fluctuating shear forces, or even tensile loads, then fatigue will occur and failure of the screw will occur.
What are the 28 parts inside? does that include the 8 screws and 8 pins between the screws? If it relies on friction then something is wearing, when things wear it leads to it wearing out and replacement.
Sounds too complicated to me, I would go with the ASP pulley as long as the welding did not generate too much heat and damage the elastomer, which is quite possible using modern equipment.
I am sure that the maker has foreseen all these problems and designed around them, and it is just the length problem to be corrected.
Correction - I never had a screw break. It was someone else (Moparrbust maybe?).
Bulldogger - IIRC, my LET idler did not have a lipped edge... it was just a smooth, machined steel 60mm cylinder w/ a 6303 bearing inside.