Thanks for the insight. You present a good idea for how to separate the front and rear channels in the factory amp and use the built-in cross-over to deal with the front speakers.

But your labeling of the polarity of pins 6 and 7 is incorrect.

Wiring it the way you have would result in phase problems affecting the soundstage imaging, Thought the speaker would still work, it would sound better corrected.

Your labeling is inconsistent with the he factory wiring diagram. The application of a little logic shows that as well. Here is the correct polarity for each amp input side pin.

Note in your list you have

AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)

Logic: But these two pins are jumpered on the input side so it doesn't make sense they'd be different polarities. They should be

AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)


Correspondingly you have

AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)

But again these two pins are jumpered so the correct polarity would be

AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)



Your corrected pin-out would look like this


AMP pin 6 - Right Door speaker input (-)
AMP pin 7 - Right Door speaker input (+)
AMP pin 10 - Right Sub input (+)
AMP pin 9 - Right Sub input (-)
AMP pin 1 - Left Door input (+)
AMP pin 2 - Left Door input (-)
AMP pin 8 - Left Sub input (+)
AMP pin 3 - Left Sub input (-)

Here is a drawing showing the pin outs with labeling.


It's your car and wiring but I find that using the standard colors and wire made for the purpose pays dividends later when you go back and look at the install, or for subsequent owners who want to understand what's in there. It's a good idea to tape off and label any wires left unattached.