I teach detailing at Meguiar's and all I can say is if you find claying to be a real elbow grease intensive process, or it takes you hours to clay a car, you are doing something very wrong. I've clayed literally hundreds of cars, and taught countless people how to do this. You are NOT scrubbing the paint - let the clay do the work. Unless the car is horribly, horribly contaminated you should be able to clay a Crossfire in 20 minutes. And if the car is horribly contaminated then skip any of the OTC clay kits and get to a body shop supply store (Finish Master, Car Quest at least - google 'em for one near you) and pick up some Meguiar's C2000 Mild Blue Detailing Clay. It will speed through the more nasty stuff, but you'll have to supply your own bottle of quick detailer as a lube. Whatever you do, stay away from the C2100 Aggressive Red Clay unless you fully intend to machine polish after claying - it is so aggressive that it can actually haze the paint a bit.

After claying you do need to wax the car, at least. What you really should do is critically evaluate the finish in good light (direct sun is good for this) and look for swirl marks. You need a good paint cleaner for that, so pick up some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and use that to remove swirls and other below surface defects. Trust me here; if you're doing this part by hand, it is back breaking and the the primary reason power tools were invented! If you don't have any swirls (which I highly doubt unless you just won Best of Show at Pebble Beach) then you can go straight to your wax. Cleaner wax, carnauba wax, synthetic sealant, doesn't matter to me - whatever you like. Just wax the car after you clay, or after you use a paint cleaner.

To see how it all should be done, read through Steve's awesome write up ---> https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...pic-heavy.html