Hey pizzaguy

Definitely use an anti-squeal lube on the pad backing even if the pads have a shim. Also caliper grease on the slides. Some pad sets have this grease in the box. If not, it's a good idea to get it.

Also, when you push the piston back into the caliper, remember that fluid is traveling "backwards" in the system---so go slowly. When I had my repair shop, some guys would do this too fast and blow-out a master cylinder. The ABS system takes most the back pressure now, but it's still a good idea to GO SLOWLY.

While you have everything apart, a can of brake clean to spray down all the parts before reinstall is also a good move---then apply the greases above.

One more---the brake fluid---important. If it is black and not a light yellow, you need to have it flushed and here is why---"Brake fluid attracts moisture, and this moisture can rust the insides of the brake system. This moisture was not that big of deal 10 years ago, but on ABS brake systems of today, the rust and other debris that accumulates in the fluid can do lots of internal damage, and can be very costly. Brake fluid can also break down over time from excess heat that is created from within the brake system."

When I had my repair shop, some thought I was full of it, but this is true. Also water can compress more than brake fluid, especially degraded brake fluid, so your stopping distance is increased. Not by much, but I would tell my customers that I was doing a brake job for THREE FEET. That is the distance from not hitting the bumper and not hitting the BACK SEAT of the car in front of you!!! In a panic stop, THREE FEET is a HUGE difference.