Originally Posted by tri_zombie

Geez I post a general question to Doc and everyone wants to know WTF I have under my hood and oh it must be BS.

So to clear the air for everyone since I will be retiring this car to my wife (oh can she drives it down the track) next year when my GTM is inspected and on the road.
I'll spill the beans!

I'm a touring musician with a mechanical Engineering background so I have very little time to play.
I built my first 13 sec. car (1974 Camaro Type LT) when I was 15 and I've been building cars and motorcycles every since,
you could say it's in my families blood. I loved racing motorcycles ADBA AMA Prostar and in 1992 ran 7 sec 170mph passes on a 138" V-twin Buell.

I've built and raced Buick Grand Nationals, Toyota Supras, a twin turbo Saleen Ford Mustang, even a 1998 Lotus Esprit. oh yea I forgot my 2001 1.8t VW Beetle sitting pretty at 300hp with a GT3071r turbo. Unfortunately I no longer have the time to go to the track plus the track will not allow me to run the crossfire when they are open. When I do get the chance my neighbor (currently running low 10's with a Impala SS) and I plus some other major gear head friends rent the track and run the hell out of our cars, how I finally got numbers (for myself) and neighborly jabbing.

List of everything done to my car.
don't forget to look at my Kill list: Saleen mustang, LS1 Vet, G35,Trans Am, Viper, Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R, 370 NISMO, 2009 ZR1.
plus many more. Does anyone want to call that BS as well?

ok on with the mods
NW CAI, DJ SC, cm-30,LET 185,blah blah blah.
Eurocharged 2.5" full dual Exhaust with racing Cats & Headers, Zex Wet Nitrous kit 75#,
Dyno Tune (Tony @ Eurocharged)
Two or three days on the Dyno (thanks Jake) and one week at Eurocharged. If you look and my build you can tell I'm a little crazy and everything done to my car was with a dyno run before and after then take everything off and try something new, repeat this process 10-12 hours a day for a week , so I know Eurocharged parts and tune make power.

Thinking about it I probably didn't pay Jake enough (sorry dude).
We started with a full tank of gas and almost ran out on the Dyno and Mat and I had to go fill it up so we could continue the tuning, we also went through two or three bottles of N20 and a set of spark plugs.

5k HIDs,Belt Wrap, Koni's, EBC Brake Pads, Brake lines, Phantom Grip, Phenolic Spacers, Magnacore 8.5mm wires.

Funny no one asked If the Phantom grip had anything to do with my Trap times. Spinning both wheels off the line @ 3000 rpms you really need to hang on. the torque is what carries the top end speed.

Now for the love:
OK now I'm going to let you know one of my secrets... ready.... read everything MD SRT6 and Waldig does and figure a way to implement it into your own car.

1) For me it was electronically clamping everything being sent to the computer via micro relays variable resistors and switches and sending the appropriate voltage to the ECU so the car does what I want when I want. Get rid of the anti-lock Waldig (switch). Waldig Thermostat idea and several other ideas he had. Load up the front springs (shims between coils so all the weight is distributed to the rear wheels. soften the rear Koni's and tighten the Front Koni's (90-10).
2) Fuel injectors cleaned, balanced and calibrated and matched up (interestingly enough my flow rates were 17% off between all the injectors) flowing 20% more plus a better pattern. cost about 150.00 each send out at least 12 so they can get the best match then sell the others off on ebay or add them to the intake ports (just after the supercharger) as a secondary set and control them with a mini piggy back for additional fuel (MD SRT6).
3) additional (second) fuel pump running 5-bar pressure @ WOT Waldig gave me the idea.
4) polished supercharger Y pipe (extrude honed) and Jet Hot coat.
5) Extrude honed and polished intake manifolds after (modifying) as done on Jakes car (again thanks Jake) flows like Needswings intake but stealth when opening hood followed with Jet Hot coating.
6) Take transmission to reputable import race shop and modify (shift kit) working on clamping for manual valve control at solenoid (no success yet)
7) while transmission is out rebuild torque converter and modify it so it acts like a 11" converter (2500-3000 rpm stall).

And last but not least tear into it and figure out what can be done besides just throwing money into parts. I'm buying a couple of rockers just to see if a machinist friend of mine can change the ratio (nothing done as of yet) but he thinks he can tig weld additional material and machine them and Cryo them so I can get a larger ratio (so much for needing cams?)

Jake is right, I'm one of those quiet guys (I read and lurk all over the forums for information) who street races for $$$$ anyone want to play? Nothing like roasting a mustang guy in the beetle! Priceless...
gotta go
back into the studio.