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Got broke, got bent, survived
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Mar 20, 2011 | 08:37 PM
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waldig
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From:
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Got broke, got bent, survived
I received this from another member: SVTCOBRA
Please tell me that when your 181mm shereed the keyway on the crank that you didnt have to get the whole crank pulled out and that all you did was relpace the keyway. i hv the 185mm and it tore the keyway off yesterday
I believe that he intended to replace the KEY, which can be done if the keyslot is not augered out or deformed to be loose.
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Greetings: Iam copying this for the forum, so that all can hear my actions and answer to svtcobra.
I had my engine hit high intake temp and the motor cut power, which at about 6000 revs, caused the engine to loose power suddenly and do a nose dive. The pully inerta forced the key ( shear key) to shear off and strip out a portion of the keyway on the crankshaft as the engine violently slowed. The now loose-flying pulley bent my crank, opened the oil pan with a nick, squashed the water pump, and MISSED all the radiator fins.
I used force and a dial indicator to straighten the snout of the crank, replaced the water pump, belt, and such to get the car running.
The crank was in the car and I am crazy ( only on days ending in Y) but decided to not pull the crank. I recut the keyway in the crank and widened it to allow me to use a longer FULL length key that was wider. I used carbide dremel bits to cut the keyway and a special file that I made to make a clean square key-slot in the crank. Thankfully pulley position is not important to the operation of the motor and I did not care if it was advanced or retarded a degree or two.
Please use a new crank bolt as they stretch and are torqued to allow full retention of the pulley. However the pulley was not to rotate on the crank in any case, the key was to prevent this. I have a serious key now, as my 185 mm pulley has larger than stock loading on the crank, Iam feeling covered now. THat was a year ago, and many races too.
Enjoy, Woody
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