You can save by using certain imports, you just need to make sure who and what your dealing with. Masterpower makes a great unit at a very good price point. On the 3.2 V6 I think a T70 will be too large. I have used them on stock 5.7 Hemi's with great success in the 7-12 psi range. I am afraid it would be laggy on a V6.

My first choice would be a single turbo mounted on the passenger side rear of engine, second choice on driver side front and relocate components. Stock exhaust rises from the manifold and then turns down to the inside. A crossover pipe could bolt to stock flanges and feed the single turbo and exhaust down where the stock exhaust was.

The cats are the issue. To be legit, split the single down pipe to feed the stock exhaust, and then remove the Y behind the post cats to run dual exhaust out the back to free up the exhaust. This leaves both sets of OEM cats in place.

Most OEM cats flow quite well, to avoid potential upstream/downstream O2 sensor mismatch and associated codes. I would run the two main upstream OEM cats minimum. I doubt there would be any significant gain by eliminating the secondary cats.

If not concerned with emissions, one can run large single exhaust with a single cat but may face O2 sensor issues.

Adding headers might gain some HP, but would add significant expense.

I have looked extensively underneath for a location for chassis mounting a system. best location is drivers side near the rear half shaft. The big issue is routing the charge pipe forward. For max clearance, I would choose oval tubing under the chassis. It will be a big challenge getting the charge pipe into the engine bay. Possibly where the drivers side exhaust came down from the stock manifold.

I am not familiar with the Kleeman tuning, but I do know that on the modern engines to meet emissions, the manufacturers run shallow upper ring lands and tight ring gaps. both create a bad situation if increased combustion chamber temps are left unchecked. Many Hemi's popped the upper ring lands from inadequate tuning, it was not from detonation but unchecked cylinder heating which caused the narrow ring gaps to close and then the rings were forced to expand up popping off part of the ring land.

Under 7 psi of boost on the Hemi, with water/meth, EGT's are within 100 degrees of maximum stock temps around 1200. If I turn the water/meth off, immediately the temps go to over 1550 degrees, hot enough to cause ring land damage in short order. Those who don't run water/meth, pull a lot more timing then I do and run fatter AFR's to provide some cylinder cooling. I make far more power at 11.8 AFR than I do at 10.6 to 10.8 AFR.

Water/ meth will be the first thing that goes on my SRT-6 when I get her home.