Well, she lives. After plugging in the SRT-6 ECU it ran just find around the block and on a short test drive. I did notice however that my IAT's were way off. So I picked up a GM IAT and tried it out. It was off by several degrees so I cut the thermistor out of the stock maf and soldered it in place of the GM thermistor. It was still off but by much less so I added a 3.9k 1/4 watt resistor and got it to within 7 degrees! I need to try a 3k resistor as I think it will be close to perfect.
I used the GM sensor because it is threaded and an easy fix; drill, tap, connect into one of my IC pipes post IC. The SRT-6 sensor is teeny tiny and a plug-in. I wasn't going to fool with trying to make a flange or other to go that route.
Problem solved.
Next, I used the DAS to double check fault codes and found one in the transmission for minor slippage in 2nd. I think that was probably from the early days when I pushed it a few times and not recent. I left the O2 wiring as is and she runs perfect with no error codes telling me they are connected wrong.
Next up, SC clutch and IC pump. I added a relay to the circuit for my IC pump and ran a control wire to the ECU - problem solved. Better yet, the pump doesn't come on when parked with the accessories on; great for the Drive-In
I wired the N/A short runner solenoid to the SC clutch on the ECU and it passed all tests.
I then took her for a test drive and ran her up to 5 psi with all fault codes cleared. The first time was smooth, the second time in 3rd gear I got spanked back down with a BAS, ESP light. I came back and had a really weird fault code - P207C (P0660) - SC Malfunction. Rudy and I had talked that the short runner solenoid might not trip a code while testing but it might not offer enough resistance over time and he suggested trying a 50 ohm - 10 watt resistor.
I cleared the codes and wired in the resistor - problem seems to be solved.
Tonight I ran her up to 5 psi twice and my knock sensor went off each time so I pulled out of it. It looks like I am running a little lean. However, before trying to add fuel via the AEM, I'm going to connect a boost signal to my fuel pump and see what happens. The line is already run, it is just a matter of making the connection once again. I don't remember from early on if this lowered the fuel pressure while in vacuum so I will have to double check. It would be awesome if this alone gives me what i need, but if not, I'll just tune her up with the AEM and be done. If I go that route, I'll first switch my crank position sensor wires for shielded.
To recap - ways to address differences in ECUs to date:
1). Wire a 50 OHM - 10 watt resistor between the terminals of the short runner solenoid, switch the wires at the ECU and drop the resistor under the intake manifold. I almost gorgot. I had to add a pin#1 to C1 on the ECU connector as it is absent fromt the NA wiring harness.
2). Relay to IC pump and control wire to ECU
3). Depending on your configuration, new IAT sensor and short pipe in plumbing to install
4). I had to clip C3 - pin 12 and relocate it to C3 - pin 9 (sensor ground) as pin 12 on the SRT-6 ecu isn't used.
5). I didn't run a wire to the alternator or double check if it was already there but no worries so far.
6). So far so Good! Overall, the most trouble it has been is toying around with the IAT sensor.