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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 05:51 AM
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MJPowers
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, OH
Default Re: Alignment specs for racing

If you are swapping tires at the course, then it is easy to do a "field alignment" to get a little toe out up front. It gets the car to turn-in much quicker, and saves the tires when not racing.

First, make sure you are aligned, then put a paint mark on the steering link (adjustable arm for toe up front) so you can reset your alignment to "STREET" (let the paint dry).

At the track, loosen the locking nut, rotate the link IN to shorten the length of the linkage (see diagram) 1.5 turns per side. I use a 12mm open end wrench. This sets your toe to about 1/8" OUT total after adjusting both sides. Tighten the lock nut. Do NOT just adjust one side 3 turns. I tried this and the ESP/BAS went crazy.

Smile at your competition when your just spent $0 and about 45 seconds to give you another little edge over them. The car is much more responsive, but like a race horse, you have to pay attention because you just took out one of the "I want to drive straight" settings of your car (see below).

When you are done racing and changing your front wheels, just loosen the lock nut, rotate the linkage 1.5 turns OUT to lengthen the linkage back to your paint spot and tighten the lock nut. Drive home on perfectly aligned front wheels.

I did this last season, and experimented from 1/8" toe in, to 1/4" toe out, and 1/8" toe out is about perfect. CAUTION: early in the season I only adjusted the toe at home, and when driving home in the rain once with the toe out (and rear in about 1/4") the car was very unstable over 35mph!

Don't forget the 5 other great things you can do to improve your autocross time:
1. Hoosiers
2. Hoosiers
3. Hoosiers
4. Hoosiers
and finally, you guessed it.
5. Hoosiers

Happy racing!
Mike
 
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