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03-21-2012, 02:12 PM

onehundred80

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Re: SRT6 brakes, slide pins lubrication

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeR

I just went out and did that test. Only took 2 or 3 pumps to get the brakes solid and then when I start it up the pedal goes down about an inch.

I have a Motive brake bleeder that you put fluid in and then pump up to ~15# or so. This keeps the cylinder full and under pressure while bleeding. Then I go open one bleeder at a time and pump the breaks until all the air is out, or the new color fluid starts coming out clear. This has worked excellent for me the last two times plus on my truck and on my daughters Mazda.

Thanks Mike, that's the way it should work. Mine just goes practically to the floor.
If you deplete the vacuum and the pedal goes down while the engine is off and then start the car the pedal should rise. Again, not in my car.

I have read anything I can on this and should know more about the power brake system than I ever needed or wanted to know but it has got me completely confused instead. Some of the comments I read on other forums was completely wrong and I knew enough to ignore it, trouble is I may ignore the wrong bit of advice when it comes along.

The thing that confuses me is why the pedal pumps up and does not drop with a lot of pressure on it, presumably proving the master cylinder is OK and then falling like a ton of bricks when the engine is started with just a low pressure on the pedal.

My thoughts are that a cylinder is sticking or the master fails with the vacuum assist power. Frankly I find both to be unlikely.
The lines have been bled three times now. The first times by vacuum and gravity and the last by careful pedal pumping with a buddy. The last time the nipples were closed in mid pedal stroke.

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