Originally Posted by
mdavin
52k miles and in Florida.
Just spoke to the mechanic about your questions. here are his answers.
Rotors--- Ill post a picture they were definitely hot and started peeling by the looks of it.
Calipers- he said the calipers are all burnt and full of burnt rubber. Possibly on fire.
Master and booster--- the booster doesn't need to be replaced but the master cylinder is full of burnt rubber as well. when you push the pedal it goes all the way to the floor.
What sensor?---tire pressure - has nothing thing to do with issue.
"fuel line flush"---Should be brake line flush?---yes brake not fuel sorry.
Locking JUST the rear could have been a proportioning valve or problems with the ABS (do you have a "light"?) or a few other things--- he said he put everything on the computer and there seems to be nothing wrong with the car at all from an electronics standpoint. however i just did have a water in the trunk issue and poured a ton of money into this just a month ago....
He believes i somehow pulled the e-brake and this caused the problem. I do not think this is the case. I would know if I pulled the Ebrake but he said the ebrake is also burnt. Any thoughts on this part, which is by far the most perplexing to me. I live in FL and have never used the e-brake under any circumstance other than making sure it works when i bought the car.
Thank you all for your help.
Rotors---Just what I thought I would see from your description---Warped I am sure and should be replaced.
Calipers---"he said the calipers are all burnt and full of burnt rubber. Possibly on fire."---I would like to see this "burnt rubber"---Brake fluid does change color and goes black with use. It is dark in a large part from the breaking down of the rubber seals, this is one reason why it should be changed every 2 years or so. Is he talking about "chunks" of floating rubber?
Either way---They need to go---My "maybe" is now a "not worth it". You are going to be there anyway with rotor and pad replacement as well as a brake flush---It is just a couple of more bolts in labor and the cost of the part to replace.
Master Cylinder---"the master cylinder is full of burnt rubber as well"---Do NOT see this at all---Yes color will be dark as stated above---But for "burnt rubber" to get to the master it MUST travel through the ABS pumps and the ABS accumulator. There are valves which are VERY small and I do not see CHUNKS of rubber going this far ESPECIALLY if the system was LOCKED---Locked means NO fluid travel.
Now, you do have "no pedal"---but that does not mean that you have a BAD master. I can put a NEW master on your car and have AIR in the system and you would have the same problem---no pedal.
I STILL question this and so do others---The ABS pumps and valves would have clogged first with this rubber.
Computer---"he said he put everything on the computer and there seems to be nothing wrong with the car at all from an electronics standpoint."---I am assuming that he has ABS reading capabilities---The normal OBDII will not check a braking system---ODBII is just for emissions related parts. If a ABS malfunction has occurred, the ABS light should have been set on the dash.
E Brake---"He believes i somehow pulled the e-brake and this caused the problem. I do not think this is the case. I would know if I pulled the Ebrake but he said the ebrake is also burnt."---This COULD have happened BUT and this is a BIG BUT---That brake handle would have been ALL THE WAY back---You would have known. Now, if you JUST used it at your LAST stop and when you started to move you dropped the handle but the cable did not disengaged the e-brake then it would have still been trying to hold the rear wheels. If you did NOT use it, then---NO. E-brakes just do not JUMP on. They are cable driven and are mechanically operated.
As for the e-brake shoes---(it is a separate system)---Yes they are more than likely heat stressed too. I agree with dinasrt about the wheel bearings. These should be done as a safety measure---They took a lot for stress from that heat.
I agree with onehundred80 about the e-brake especially since you are sure that it was not pulled. Something else like a failing valve or a bad signal to the ABS pump---I can NOT tell from here but e-brake would not make my list of choices after listening to you.
I would START with what I KNOW must be done---Rotors, calipers, and pads---Wheel bearings and seals---Check the e-brake shoes and make the call---If they are CRACKED and broken, new ones are needed. Since you do not have HILLS in FLA and do not use it, you may be able to sand the glaze off of them and be okay---Really, need more info on them. And a TOTAL flush of the system---Bleed all air out and then see what you have.
Then check to see if you have pedal---I am not the only one here which is having a problem condemning the master cylinder. Since they are at opposite ends of the car the only EXTRA labor would be a SECOND bleeding with takes very littler time on a rack.
What was the "water" problem and what was replaced? Need to know this PLEASE....
We still need to find WHAT caused this to happen---If e-brake is out, then what? If you or the mechanic does NOT answer this, you may be buying all these parts AGAIN........
Let us know---Jimmy