Great write up.
I just peeled the gauge face graphic off and removing all the bulbs and flipping up those side door flap things was not necessary to do so.
Also there is a dedicated low fuel bulb location which did not have a bulb installed. The corresponding area on the lowest arc of the fuel gauge is colored red (and would be lit if a bulb were in place) but the red area was painted black behind the red to block this!
Does anybody have a single bulb holder and bulb they want to sell?
Or know of a source for them besides the dealer?