g3air,

thanks for the removal pics. It's pretty straightforward once you have rolled up your sleeves, isn't it? Allow me to point out a few details.

It appears that the few tools used were:
1) Flat screwdriver to remove two-piece plastic tabs that hold panel in place (a bent fork or a panel removal tool work well for this, too). Thanks for showing the tab details - pull out the inner part first, then the outer (barbed) portion pulls out easily from the panel.
2) T-15 torx wrench or socket for removal of the soft top controller from the pump frame (making sure the negative battery pole gets disconnected first)
3) 10-mm socket to unbolt the pump frame from the chassis (and you will use the same to separate the pump from the frame before you send the pump to Top Hydraulics for testing and overhaul/upgrade)

You will also use a 4-mm or 5-mm Allen wrench to remove the manifold plate from the hydraulic pump that holds all the hydraulic lines. Simply unscrew those Allen bolts, and pull up a little on each single line. No worries, the hydraulic lines will stay confined to the plate; they are secured to the plate via circlips. Pulling on each line is only needed because it can require a lot of force to pull all lines at once.

You mentioned a torque wrench and loctite earlier. Frankly, I don't think you need either for re-installation. The threads still have some loctite on them for friction, and tightening 10-mm hex bolts isn't rocket science. You want to watch out not to over-tighten the Allen bolts on the pump's aluminum body, but they are fairly long and they take a good amount of torque for you to ruin their threads.

You also noted that your fluid level is a bit below minimum. It is barely below minimum, and the fluid intake from the pump to the reservoir is at the bottom of the reservoir. Thus, I do not believe that the fluid level is the cause of your sluggish top movement. Go ahead and send us the pump. Since I suggested this here, we wouldn't charge you anything for testing and return shipping if the pump was okay... :-)

Lastly, I hope that the riveter isn't scaring anyone. It is only needed for the two rear bow cylinders, and I hope that ala_xfire can take the scare-factor out of that portion of the cylinder removal once he has created his pictoral DIY for removal of all seven cylinders.

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt and Upgraded Convertible Top Cylinders, Pumps, Hydraulic Lines - Top Hydraulics, Inc