The relay is soldered to the unit. Are you saying you have a solderable relay? That seems pretty hard to fully remove from maybe 8 solder points and replace. I am willing to fix my other though and resell it. Let me know.

Follow up to issue:

So, I replaced the RCM that day. Today, first time, my wife drove it to same store. GUESS WHAT....exact same place the car fails (within 50 yards of first cutoff before RCM).

She calls me and says, "Car is dead same place but this time, it cranks, just won't start!!!"

Anyone wanna guess??? Let me save you the trouble...

In my previous post, I told you the forum lead me towards the CPS. So, I replaced it....didn't fix and finally found it to be the RCM....

Today, THE NEW AFTERMARKET CPS SENSOR failed after 1 mile of use.

So, I raced over with the old sensor that I had removed and replaced it in less than 5 minutes. CAR RAN!!!!

So, I encountered two of the three issues in the forum. (the other being the SKREEM unit but mine is ok)

Moral of the story and posted by someone previously. DO NOT USE AN AFTERMARKET CPS SENSOR! Rockauto.com also sells the OEM unit like the RCM I told you about.

SUMMARY: If car won't turn over...it's the Relay Control Module. If car turns over but won't crank, it's the Crank Position Sensor. If car won't start AND KEY FOB isn't activating alarm and doors, most likely it is the SKREEM remote module and it is behind the dash panel. The battery being dead in the remote will not stop the car from starting.

I hope this helps someone as much as the past discussions helped me. I just started in the wrong place and then ended up there after the NEW sensor failed.

Joe D.