Originally Posted by BibaResto

Main question at the second to the last paragraph.

RyanB, thanks for bringing up the clutch bleeding. I've been assuming the brakes and clutch used the same reservoir. But this does make sense regarding having a dark looking fluid in the reservoir.

ala_xfire, do you recall what the threads are for the speed bleeders? Eyeballing, they look coarser than the standard pitch. I just buttoned up the wheels so what is the diameter? I'm guessing 5mm.

Here's the situation...Sunday after I finished bleeding the brakes, they were as bad as before. Also to top off the 98 degree day, the new 3 ton floor jack doesn't stay in place. As in the car keeps lowering if I don't have a stand underneath it. Sucked day.

I re-bled on Monday, no better. While today I was just finishing the first (left rear) bleeding, it began raining. Not bad but was still at it when I got the wheel back on, etc. and put it back in the shop.

Now the Big Question: Does the car have to be running when bleeding the brakes? After bleeding the brakes both yesterday and the one today, the brake pedal is solid. Turn the engine on and it goes half-way down.

I do want to add here that I'm in essence doing the same thing as when you have a helper pumping the brake. When helper hears stop!, they hold the pedal down as the bleed screw gets tightened. I simply use a longish 2 x 4 and with some padding, tuck the 2 x 4 up against the pedal and front seat cushion then tighten the bleed screw. Since I'm using a one-way valve on the tubing end in the jar it keeps the fluid from sucking back in. I also use grease around the threads.