If I understood correctly, the clutch master cylinder is accessed by removing the kick panel under the dash (top of the clutch pedal). Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

If you are looking to bleed the clutch slave cylinder, there is a rubber rectangular plug (about 3" x 2") on the passenger side of the transmission close to the first catalytic converter. Remove that (it just pulls out) and there is a bleed screw.

Just a side note - I used "house brand" DOT 4 fluid, which was a mistake. After the flush if I drove over 10 minutes without engaging the clutch it became very hard to push and I was afraid the pedal would not come back up at one point. My slave cylinder is probably on the way out, but interesting enough I replaced the fluid with Castrol SRF and have had no issues since. Could be completely unrelated - maybe I just did not bleed the clutch very well the first time around (although I tried 4 separate times), I guess I will find out.

Have you really stomped on the brakes between bleeding them? I don't know why it helps (maybe there is air trapped in the ABS unit), but whenever I bleed brakes I "panic stop" preferably on a slicker surface to get the ABS to engage. I bleed the the lines again and then all is well and I have a tighter pedal. Once again, this could have nothing to do with anything, and I just happen to bleed them correctly on the last attempt - but it seems no matter how much fluid I run through the system I can't get a good pedal the first time.

Lastly, I don't remove the wheels when I bleed the brakes. There is enough room to get in behind them if you have a longer tube. I am using a Mityvac, so I have plenty of tubing. the front wheels you just have to turn to the side you are working on.

I hope some of this helps you,
Ryan