This is exactly what is happening to me. Car died with the same symptoms over two weeks ago. Reading here I suspected the SKREEM and told them when I towed the car in. This is a Chevy dealer I bought the car from and bring it to them so I don't have to pay a deductible with my extended warranty. They then sent it to Chrysler since it was electronic related and nothing mechanical they can do. Two weeks later, Chrysler agrees with me, it's the SKREEM. They are saying the chip in my remote went bad too, and when they replace the SKREEM with one they have in stock, I need a new key and to get it programmed. They have this in stock too. But the warranty company says they won't cover the key, only the SKREEM. Chrysler says the car will not work without a new key and having it programmed.

Talking with a few others online, they agree, the SKREEM needs to be VIN programmed, not off the shelf. They suspect the dealer has one sitting there with a key that was sent for another car and trying to unload the set. With the proper VIN programmed SKREEM, my old remote should work, and if the chip inside is actually bad like they claim, my second remote should work, correct? No keyfob programming needed?

What is confusing here is I see instructions on how to program our keyfobs, but I also see the above post saying how the keyfob is also VIN set and can't be. So I'm confused, what does the programming actually do that is posted in the tech section, if that fob needs to be VIN specific?

Fueling up on all my info as I bring the second remote in tomorrow. I'm out of work right now with unemployment running dry. Don't have the $210 for a new keyfob and programming. Glad the $600 SKREEM is covered, this was why I bought the warranty knowing Mercedes parts are expensive.