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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 01:13 PM
  #17 (permalink)  
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KDW4Him
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Alma, MI
Default Re: Dreaded parasitic battery drain

Originally Posted by foxxfire7
Okay,But the problem that I'm seem to be having when doing this.I'm getting a hard arc and blue not red spark when hooking up battery.Okay ran check got a reading of 2.1 .After shutting car off ,I tried to restart and got nothing.All lights work and horn blows.Not even a click from attempting to crank.Tested battery and got reading of 12.7 volts.Nothing even after trying to boost.Car would start with a jump before,but just has something robbing a lot of current from somewhere. Starter failing to engage now.Like a security kill start.Also spoiler light is flashing and did not before.Could I have a open relay?Also be advised that central vacuum pump has been removed due to it frying.Can car operate with out it?
The arc means nothing. You actually measured it with the .56 reading on the meter before it settled down to 0.01. It's just all the electronics getting their initial voltage when power is connected.

2.1 what? Amps from our first test set up meter in series or 2.1 volts from our second test set up seeing if the neg cable was good. If it was the voltage test for the ground wire I would investigate that. If you are losing 2 volts with just the cars accys on you are probably losing 5-6 volts when cranking or trying to crank. You may even see the entire 12 volts! We have had several reports of ground wires right at the block being very corroded.

Did the jumper cables or battery ever get connected with the wrong polarity? Meaning the neg cable to the pos term and the pos cable to the neg term?

A battery voltage of 12.7 may still not supply the needed current (read amps) to start the car due to internal resistance in the battery. Or a corroded neg wire.

You have some strange stuff going on with only those symptoms. It's like we are missing part of the story.
 

Last edited by KDW4Him; Feb 1, 2016 at 01:38 PM.
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