Originally Posted by Sweet2002

I noticed this today. I was not too surprised when the top hose was without coolant when I popped the hood when I first went out to the car this morning but then I checked the lower and it too was "flat"? Any observation of this phenomenon? I do have the heat exchanger cutoff but for this start I opened both valves and when warm/hot the hoses were pressurized. Closed them both again. I want to get my engine to run cooler as I am in SW Florida which is very hot and humid most of the year. Now when it is in the 70's the motor loves it and you can feel the power. Chuk likely got me straight on getting datalogs with the E/C datalog feature. I know my car could be tuned better once I get mechanics work "repaired"! Sad huh? I pay a high $300. to have the rear cats and back removed and replaced with the magnaflow TRU X-pipe(internal muffler) which is a quality piece accomplishing two issues, keeps the exhaust quieter while using the x-pipe feature to help balance the odd firing of the V6 motor, making more power, then I used a magnaflow "Y" pipe to reduce the dual outlets of the muffler into a single 3" pipe, deleting the resonator and exiting through a Borla Pro XS muffler. The shop removed the "bar/brace" that the stock piping goes up and over which I overheard them talk about figuring they were putting it back in place after the muffler until the next day I check and no brace, no brace at the shop but the stock muffler is there/resonator also. I left a message that if the owner does not find the part around his shop he should source a replacement for me, fat chance as this was a no paperwork job.
I am questioning if a freeflow exhaust helps keep a motor run cooler? I also want to try the 4 drilled holes in the T-stat as Mimi said when he was in Florida it worked great for him. I notice if the needle for the engine heat stays at 9AM or less is where the motor makes more power. I understand I can have Jerry tune the fan to operate in high speed whenever the fan is called for. The extra noise from the fan should not bother me. Once the radiator hose is said to be correct or is repaired getting the motor to run cooler is something I can do that should not be costly and provide some real power gains so ANY suggestions to keep the engine cooler are appreciated. I know the engine has an optimal temp range for keeping the engine efficient and the emissions down, etc., we just want the intake air temps down and one thing I thought about was using a shield between the filter(s) and the radiator so the filters cannot draw in hot air as guys have tested and the DCAI is overkill so the shield will not keep the engine choking for air.
Here I will summarize as I am rambling. For a cooler running motor:
1. Drill 4 .25" holes in the t-stat so some coolant is flowing all the time keeping the engine cool where it likes to be for the feel of the power.
2. Shields between the filters and the radiator as the DCAI from Rob will still get plenty of air to the motor.
3. has anyone tried spraying water onto the heat exchanger and/or radiator set perhaps to operate under WOT?
4. have the tune modified to run at full rpm when ever the fan is called for, anything here except to put up with the noise?
I have a PLXDevices wideband but no other gauges and can datalog with the E/C software. Jerry has been great and I don't take advantage of him as I know he is a busy guy. Looking forward to see my boost and timing with a good log.
What other gauges should I consider must haves? My hearing is so poor I could never hear knock and cell phones with their songbird chirps..........my sister comes from another room to answer her phone that is in the room I'm in but I hear NOTHING, huh? Enough for now! thanks, mark