That depends if the sensor is stuck from sludge, and if it can be 'unstuck'. If you do replace it, you have a few more things you HAVE to get right the 1st time or you'll be dealing with those things (like maybe a leaky gasket?). If I were you, I would drain a qt of oil and add a good grade of kerosene to the full mark. Run it for 15 or 20 minutes (at least to full operating temperature for that 15 minutes). I would then lightly tap the area where the sensor is located while and after draining the oil (maybe 'releasing' potentially stuck float?), then put fresh oil and filter in to the 'minimum' mark on the dipstick. If it doesn't free it up (if in fact it is 'stuck' from sludge) give it a few miles on bumpy roads. If it is stuck and able to 'jar' loose, you now have fixed it. Our cars do not have to have the oil at the 'maximum' mark. Driving around 1 to 3/4 qt lower than 'MAX' just might restore the sensor operation. If it doesn't, your only out the cost of the kerosene (and an oil change if it was not needed at the time you try this). In my opinion, it would be much cheaper than ordering all the parts needed to replace that sensor, including another oil change, anyway. Always go the least cost first, then if it doesn't work you can explore additional options (I always say). Remember, no one knows (that I have read) WHY they have a problem with their sensor, they just go and replace it. It couldn't hurt to try and figure out if it is stuck vs broken.