Oh, the pain. This might be duplicated, but here goes:
Well, I thought I had started a reply, then I saw Page 2, looked at it, came back to page 1 and the quick reply box was blank. I then typed in the following, hit Redit, and was informed the connection was closed.
DON'T REMOVE THE FRAME TO REPLACE THE TOP!!!!!! It is not necessary, If you have your top done stateside, you'll just need to remove the old top as in the video - easy-peasy. 13 T-25 screws across the front, 4 pop rivets to remove on each side, rubber moldings to pull partially loose, 2 cable to unhook, defroster wires to unhook and remove from their pockets, and about 9 little clips that hold the plastic molding in across the rear deck bow. How do I know this? I just replaced ours this weekend. I thought it might be a 4 hour job but I hadn't figured on the safari to hunt the missing tools or the clip that took flight when not expected.
First off, I ordered my new top from BAS International in Wales, UK. They make the new plastic parts so you don't have to send your old top in. I gleaned this company from on of the forums, e-mailed them, and received a quote - in pounds - for the new "hood" and shipping. The $ exchange rate at the time of the transaction varies. Our new top was $711 shipped. The person I exchanged e-mail and a phone call with is Rebecca Treherne. (She liked my accent. I thought she had the accent.) Estimated time is 5 weeks from placing the order to shipping date. (Ours was produced in 4 weeks, shipped by DHL on Monday and arrived Wednesday before noon.)
OK, next - watch the video - several times. Don't bother with the CC translator. It comes up with some strange sentences. If you know someone fluent in Spanish and they have an hour to kill, make them watch it too.
I don't think I need to go step by step if you've watched the video, but here are a few things I may have done wrong, or that happened to me.
1. Don't go crazy cutting or drilling out the pop rivets. There is one on each side that simply holds a loop of strap that the cords slide through going to the "S" hook at the front bow. Not necessary to remove.
2. Pulling the rubber molding loose from the frame wasn't too bad. It doesn't have to come all the way off, just enough to clear the plastic moldings under them. I did have trouble getting the "B"(?) pillar moldings back in. I read today something about squeezing the clips tighter so they'll grip. Some help here would be great. I've not rolled the windows down since finishing the other day.
4. Watch to see where the little bushings belong. 4 are included with the new top, so 4 must have been around 4 rivets in the old top. I presumed they went in the plastic pieces at the front side arm and rear plastic molding at the "B"(?) pillar to prevent the rivet from splitting the plastic piece. These were the only holes large enough for the bushings to go into.
5. The plastic "B"(?) pillar molding slides down to remove it after removing the rivet. It has hooks that fit in the metal frame.
6. When removing the rear plastic molding from the rear bow, I don't know if you have to grip the clip with the pliers, or just the edge of the top to pull it out of the groove. It is shown in the video, but "no comprende". This plastic strip is held in the groove by little metal clips that have teeth that "bight" the plastic and fit tightly in the groove. (This is where I lost time trying to find missing ones. One was on the ground - bounced 6 feet away, the other was still in the groove.) I hope these still have enough "bight" to do their job.
7. I removed 1 rivet from the wide strap on the 3rd bow to allow the top to slide out of the groove. I don't know if that is really necessary. Only 8 rivets were included with the top, and this made the 9th one. if you work carefully, you might be able to clear the strap as you pull the top off sideways.
8. If you are sending your top off for duplication, this is where you stop until the new top arrives.
9. Installation is the reverse of removal. Where I am having trouble now, as mentioned before, is where the curved rubber "B"(?) pillar molding goes back in. I have it in with the windows up and hoping the heat of the day yesterday helped it to resettle. There appears to be no glue in the groove, just funky metal clips in the rubber. Any help here would be appreciated!
It looks good! And "I Did It Myself!"
Now to get the top to operate again. Water got in the trunk from the bad rear window and soaked the electronic lock vacuum mechanism in the RR trunk. I hope I've cleaned and dried it out. The locks are working again, but the dome light has been misbehaving. I don't even know if that mechanism has anything to do with the top operation. But I'm getting nothing but a flashing light when I push the top button. Help here would also be appreciated.
Best of luck with your endeavor!
Bill