I finished my projector led fog light conversion last night. I just have to do the alignment for the projector lenses. Below is a comparison of the OEM halogen light (warmer color light) versus the LED light (cooler color light). As you can see between the two pictures, there is a great amount of light produced but it is low enough to where it will not blind oncoming drivers.
The LED is on tie right. The picture doesn't do justice for the beam pattern. I will post more pictures after I align them.
This is a couple of inches off the ground. You can see how much the projector focuses the light at the lower level.
I have also decided to stop all crossfire projects for now and focus on just this one below. I found a extra wide 12.3 inch LCD display online and some open source software and decided to bring my gauge cluster up to date. This will take some time to get it just the way I want it but I am confident I can make it work. I purchased a spare gauge cluster and have been messing around with it in my free time. I was able to emulate most of the signals that make the gauge cluster work and test them with the software as well. I tapped into the CAN bus at the gear shiftier and was able to get an abundant amount of info as well. Some of the data included was
Current gear the car is in (im both auto and manual shift modes)
The gear the transmission control unit is requesting the transmission to go into
RPM's (which as you can see, I will have to change the gauge redline range)
Speed
Throttle
Door open/closed
ESP Enabled/Disabled
and Summer/Winter mode
I also plan to add other information such as Radar Detector status (since I like to turn the screen off at night), rear view camera and possibly video playback from my dash cam (im not sure about this one yet but it would be nice since the actual controller is buried in the dash)
The two biggest things I am trying to work out before I proceed is the gas gauge signal (which I think shouldnt be a problem) and the odometer. I am thinking of leaving the original gauge cluster circuitry behind the LCD so I can pull the LCD out to verify the odometer if needed. If I take the needles and gears out, I think I can make it fit.