Thanks for this write up @Kurtp13. I changed out my driveshaft guibos and the center carrier bearing assembly last night and your instructions were very helpful in contributing to my success. Especially, the fact that you mentioned the necessary tools. I had to have someone bring me a T60 and an E12 per your write up and I'm glad I did, cuz the MakerSpace that I was at did not have these two.

As you mentioned in your notes, I did not have to remove the exhaust at all. I went ahead and removed all of the following and it gave me more than enough room to maneuver and do what I had to do.
Removed all 6 T60 Bolts from both Guibos.
Removed the 2 Carrier Bearing E12 Bolts
Removed the little cross brace that is right under the U-Joint.
Removed the Tranny mount and cross brace that it sits on.
Removed the 4 tiny nuts that hold the heat shield in place so that I could move it forward or backward as needed.

In doing this, I was able to move the driveshaft back and forth enough to get the guibos out and then from there I was able to very easily pull the driveshaft apart and get the whole back half of it out.
The part that took some time was getting the old carrier bearing off of the driveshaft. I ended up doing much like you in that I had to completely rip the old one apart so that I could get down to just the bearing itself and then I was able to get it off with a gear puller using an impact wrench.
Getting the new one back on was pretty simple since I got lucky that the handle on a jack that was near me was the exact diameter of the bearing and I was able to just bang it on with that pipe. lol

I ordered the guibos and the carrier bearing assembly from NeedsWings. They were an exact replacement for the old parts and worked perfectly. I am at 150K miles, so it was way overdue. I was able to push the driveshaft up and down pretty easily with the old bearing assembly and now it is super tight.

I then put everything back together using the torques found in the service manual. The manual mentions as you do, that the guibo bolts need to be torqued while the car is in its "natural ride height", but since I had the car on a lift I just did them while it was in the air with the wheels hanging. I think (I could be wrong) that the service manual is assuming that you might have the car on a jack or jack stands and they want you to get the car nice and straight before torquing them.

The next repair that I will be tackling is replacing my front lower control arms, ball joints and steering dampener. The bushings on my current control arms are flaking apart and the car follows any crack in the road really badly. Hopefully all of this will really tighten up the car and make it perform and handle like the good ole days.

Ciao for Niao!