Originally Posted by
scottevil
Fair :-) Well, minimally, it was not the pump. For me, doing the jumper in the box on the driver's side did the trick. One can only deduce that it was the relay, as the computer seems to be reading temps correctly (based on Torque). If it wasn't the relay, it would have to be a glitch with the computer, which I find very implausible. Changing the relay though, is beyond what I want to do with this car :-)
Since I am not familiar with the " jumper in the box on the driver's side" , I will have to speculate that you shorted E2 to E7 (on the N65) (which bypasses the relay and ecu drive circuit and runs the charge cooler pump directly from "circuit 15" (ignition on) power). This would make your pump run BOTH if your relay were bad OR if your ECU relay drive signal were missing. Worth noting, E2 is un-fused so one should be careful to keep the key out of the ignition and not to let this wire touch ground while messing about with it (could result in harness or ignition switch melt-down).
While I've not heard of the charge cooler relay failing (yet), it seem it IS the most likely culprit in your case. HOWEVER, in order to know more conclusively, you would need to remove your " jumper in the box on the driver's side" and short the ECU drive signal (E5) to ground. If the pump runs (key must be in run position) your ECU (or the connection between the ecu and the N65) is the issue. If the pump does not, then the relay is the issue.
but it sounds like you have solved your issue to your satisfaction, so I understand if you don't go any further.
Cheers,
Chris
