Originally Posted by dynamicS
Well I managed to find some time after work, and just pulled the Hydraulic ABS/Traction controller fuse. Drove the car home and absolutely no difference in performance at all!!! Except those momentary pauses when the TC activates is gone! Woohoo!
I can fully rev up to 6,500 rpm before the governor kicks in, so all we need now is for someone with the fused remove to test this on the dyno...
I haven't tested to see If the car will let me drop the clutch yet, but so far it's very stable around corners while in first and second gear under full throttle...
Now all I need is one of those wizbang Supersprint throttle thingy's, lol.
Dynamic. I don't want to burst your bubble. When you pull fuse #5 or #17 + #18 together to disable the TC for a dyno run, the speed sensors in the front wheels which are not turning during dyno runs will cause the car to cut-out @ 5,000 rpm. I've had my TC disabled for quite awhile by removing those fuses altogether, and yes it works when you are driving (or racing in my case), but not for dyno pulls... This whole TC thing that Woody and I have been discussing revolves around getting a full RPM 6,200 dyno run, which as far as we are concerned, is not possible.
I think you missed the posts we made about this issue. To disable the TC remove fuse #5 from the ECU housing, or remove both #17 + #18 fuses from the engine bay fuse box. Both will deactivate the TC.
In order to get a partial dyno run to 5,000 rpm you must remove the TC fuses or the car will just crap-out at about 1,200 rpm. But, this is the key point the engine will DIE at 5,000 rpm on a dyno, whether it be a standard 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive dynomometer.
Full RPM dyno's are impossible as far as the experiments we have done thus far.