"Former NXMX5" - All testing for the twin turbo setup was professionally done and it was done on a secondary, wrecked Crossfire I picked up in northern Utah. I haven't tinkered with my Crossfire without knowing what I, or the company is doing.

"Thirteendog" - I have been polite, and do realize they communicate. I've taken it to five dealerships and eight Mercedes shops. As for you not appreciating how I worded it - gee, my apologies. I posted it on the third and still hadn't gotten any responses by the twenty first. And obviously someone did have a response as you can see below your statements. Their response, however, didn't include what yours did. I don't particularly feel like arguing, I'm done with you on that one.

"Woody" - Yes, they all occurred beginning at the same time but no they don't seem to be related - they all began just after an oil change but don't seem related to that either, and I watched them closely the entire time they were changing the oil anyway. It's spitting out codes (I'd have to get the exact number for you) that don't really give us much information... The techs at the dealer even showed me the books definition for the code and it basically says "Fuel lines / O2 Sensor / MAF Sensor / Unknown Engine Problem." All these problems are occurring regardless of weather, outside temperature, engine temperature, gas levels etc.

Anyway, I have solved some of them myself out of frustration with the dealers... (After one service manager was fired and Chrysler had to send a field tech all the way to Utah to meet with me and they had to give me a brand new fully loaded Grand Cherokee with a HEMI to drive around for a month hee hee hee)... So here is what I found...

- Car stereo turning on at random, no clue but it hasn't done it lately.

- Oil light flashing on is just a faulty oil sensor, replaced myself.

- Rough engine idle got worse - one day the car would start just fine but would not stay running - revving it up immediately would only make it idle itself at 2,000 rpm and rev ITSELF continually between 2,000 and 2,500 while the entire car shook! Turns out all cylinders were misfiring due to a combination of... crank shaft sensor going out, camshaft sensor going out, and MAF sensor going out... The first two being between $100 and $150 weren't bad, but turns out the MAF was close to $2,000... WOW!

- Car backfiring noise was not a true backfire - wasn't loud enough and nothing was coming out of the exhaust. Having someone drive the car in front of me one day so I could observe it I noticed when they hit the gas or a bump the exhaust tips would twist in the rear - found several loose mounts for the exhaust which when it turned were causing a slight gap to open in the exhaust allowing air to escape and produce a slight backfire like noise.

- The bog down in first and second and the transmission not feeling like they wanted to engage were just power related issues tied into the previously mentioned sensors. The transmission also had a worn out mount.

- The car still once in a while doesn't want to stay running once you turn it on but will be fine once you kick the rpm's up for a second and my check engine light is still on. Otherwise, seems to be running at full power, no codes being produced. Still scratching my head...

- The "sucking" noise is still occurring as well, and I can get it to become a steady noise when in sixth gear - only when the gas is slightly applied, when the pedal is pushed in any further it stops, any ideas?