Originally Posted by
bnelson1970
Okay. Here's the scenario and bear with me please. I know in the grand scheme of things and the Big Picture that the Heater Core NEEDS to be replaced. The job really is too big for me and I'm surprised that I've been able to get this far. For the next 3 or four months, I need to go approximately 10 miles a day and on back roads at roughly 35 to 40 miles an hour with zero freeway driving.
Can I bypass as I (and others) explained above (included note below as well) and get by for now until I can get it taken care of professionally. I know it's the wrong thing to do overall...but can I do it without destroying my engine? If I go easy, don't race the engine, monitor it daily (especially for hose leaks) and be extremely careful. Can I get away with it? And you seem to really know what you're talking about and I appreciate both your wisdom and sharing your obvious experience.
quote with extra revised additions in bold:
"Okay. I've looked at the diagrams a few times already. I didn't understand that the two (perpendicular adjacent) hoses going into the firewall and then the Heater Core were both supply lines (there seems to be some differing opinions on this with some folks saying SUPPLY while others are saying RETURN). If I were to do a bypass, my guess would be that I cut the 2 tubes going into the firewall (again, perpendicular adjacent on the passenger side), put an adapter on the remaining hoses with a horseshoe U-tube (and 4 hose clamps to secure both lines 2 on each line). [[b]and I've seen 20 videos on the web that suggest this course of action with the U-tube really works] Then I find the exit/Return hose and clamp that off (near the firewall on the driver side). This would cut both the supply and exit Return hose and completely bypass the Heater Core altogether as the supply anti-freeze/water circles back into the Radiator and (for the exit/Return) when it (the anti-freeze/water) tries to collect (not collect, but rather go back up the line on the exit/Return tube on the driver side) from the exit/Return from the Heater Core...it doesn't know where to go because it's clamped off so it to then circles back to the Radiator."
I mean, if it doesn't have a supply line nor a exit return line then nothing goes to it and it doesn't matter whether it's currently working or not. IT IS BASICALLY OUT OF THE SYSTEM.
In fact, all of the videos do not show doing anything other than the 2-supply lines on the passenger side. U-tube style bypass.
This works right???
Thx all,
B.
YES, you CAN bypass the core. I would suggest you get a "Y" and install it rearward of the duovalves (leaving the two exiting the firewall loose/open), and then tying the final leg of the "Y" over to the supply line that goes from the engine TO the core (leaving that last single heater core line open at the firewall). Make sure the system is drained below the lowest open line before you try to bypass the core at this point or as soon as you cut into those lines, some coolant will leak out.This will isolate the three lines connected to the heater core (sealing the entire cooling system up). The alternative is just CAP all three, and stop all flow at the duovalves (returns) and the other side at that supply line. IF you just cap all three, remember to cap BOTH duovalves rearward side on both valves AND that supply line going to the core (single line) on the opposite side of the engine. You do not want to let the duovalves get dried out (keep them wet) because if those valves aren't left wet you might have trouble with them after the core is replaced.
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