Originally Posted by
LagDan
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Their is no need to be 2 people if an mityvac brake bleeder kit, or something similar, is used and it is a way better method than using the brake pedal to do so . . .
First,install car on lift or on 4 jack stand and remove weels. Open the master cylinder reservoir and note the oil level because at the end of the procedure you need to finish with that same level. Then, suck the old brake fluid almost to the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, refill to top with new brake fluid, put cap on but do not completely screw the cap.
Caution . . . do not suck more brake fluid than the master cylinder reservoir contain at once or air will enter the system. Check level and reajust often.
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Unscrew the Rear Right caliper's bleeder and put teflon tape on the bleeder's thread to prevent air bubble in the clear tube while you bleed.Reinstall and thighten bleeder,leave a closed end wrench on the bleeder and connect clear tube,Build vacuum and check the guage to see if their is no leak, The tip of the bleeder need to be free of dirt or rust in order to have a good seal with the tube. , If their is no vaccum lost you are ready to proceed . . . then, you open the bleeder slowly and keep your vacuum steady. Has soon you see the change in color of the brake fluid comming out in the clear tube you have the confirmation that this line is properly done .If their was any air at all in this line you should have seen it passing by in the clear tube. Repeat procedure with the Rear Left caliper followed by Front Right and finally the Front Left.
Adjust brake fluild level in master cylinder reservoir to the same level previously noted and thightly screw reservoir cap. Test brake pedal travel and you are done.
Daniel
I have replaced the oil twice and bled them at least three times, with help and on my own with and without speed bleeder nipples. I have replaced the Master Cylinder hoping it was at fault, I primed this with oil before installing it.
I have bled brakes for years so this is not my first time at the rodeo as they say. I did think there was air in the ABS module but tend to think there is none, maybe a sticking solenoid valve in the ABS module.
With the ignition OFF the pedal stops where I would expect it to stop and it does apply the brakes, you have to use more pressure as expected. Turn the ignition to the ON position and the pedal falls, the brakes and ABS work fine the pedal is hard and no feeling of sponginess. I think this is because the ABS valves are bypassed with no power going to them. If you see the hydraulic circuit schematic there are more lines than you would expect. I will add it if I can find it.
My Micropod 2 setup says the ABS pump is OK, the power brake system is OK and only the Steering Angle sensor and pollution readings need resetting this is because the battery was disconnected.
Basically I learnt nothing from the Micropod 2 that I did not already know. I only checked the ABS system, my BlueDriver told me the pollution settings problem which is easy to guess.
I have a spare ABS module and I would instal it if I was sure I could bleed the ABS properly using the ABS pump.
I think sticking solenoids valves could allow oil to get past them because they are open thus building up no pressure in the system until it comes to a closed circuit and allows pressure to build and the brakes to work. Pressure should start to rise once the Master Cylinder piston has been pushed past the make up holes in the cylinder walls, instead it travels farther causing the longer pedal stroke.