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Old May 3, 2022 | 08:16 PM
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BrushRoadster!
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 78
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Default Crossfire Center of Gravity

Does anyone know the approximate center of gravity of a Crossfire?

By that, I mean the point between the 2 jacking point receptacles on each frame rail at which point the car will be in balance.

I am looking at building a lift for my Crossfire, based somewhat on the example by Viny B (DIY Car Jack/Car Lift) on his youtube channel.
One of the key points on his design is that his vehicle will pivot just by moving it with his hands, so it goes nose-down on the floor, resting on the front tires, which leaves the fuel tank area at a height of about 50"off the floor. Or it will lift the nose and put the car's butt on the floor, with the front of the car about 50" off the floor. The level of fuel would have very little effect on the effort required to tilt the vehicle, if the CG point is carefully located, and the pivot point placed at that spot.
But crucial to this feature is determining accurately the Center of Gravity position of the vehicle. Logically, all the Coupes should be the same, and also all the Convertibles should be the same. I do not know if the SRT-6's have enough weight difference to be investigated or not. My question is, has anyone established what this dimension might be.
My intention is to establish this point, using the forward jackpoint receptable as the datum point, and locating the CG point a particular distance AFT of this point.
The advantages of this lift are tremendous.
Except for a massive weld failure, there is virtually no chance of collapse, as the lift is actuated by Acme screw thread rods. These will transmit lifting force, but even if they are completely released after turning them to a certain height, THEY CANNOT COLLAPSE BECAUSE THEY WILL NOT TRANSMIT FORCE in the reverse direction. They WILL NOT turn by themselves.
Acme screw threads are commonly used on airliners to position the flaps, horizontal stabilizer, etc, because even if the drive mechanism to the Acme shaft is severed or even broken off, the Acme shaft WILL NOT TURN. Thus, as a lift drive, they are perfect. It would not even be necessary to install stops on this lift, although I intend to install a set of locks as a secondary safety feature. (Even in an aircraft crash, with the stupendous crash forces, the Acme threads will NOT shift position at ALL. That is how they confirm flap setting positions after an aircraft accident, by physically looking at the flap drive screws and measuring them.)
I am going down tomorrow to see how much some Acme shafting will cost. I think a 8' length, cut into two 4 ft. pieces, will be adequate to operate the lift. I am also going to check into some angle gearboxes at a surplus place near me, as it is necessary to drive both shafts (one for each siderail lift) at the same time.
(The ides is to make two frame rails, one fitting into the lift points on each side, and then attach the center pivot at the correct point to both lift the car while it is balanced, and also allow the vehicle to be tipped forward or aft for full access to the front or rear end.)
If you watch Viny B's video, you will quickly grasp the concept.
I plan on doing a mockup out of wood first, to check the geometry of movement, and then make parts in steel.
Determining the CG point for a Coupe will be some effort, and I don't want to do it if someone already knows the CG point of the car.
Thanks to anyone who can provide information.
 
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